與飲食相關的味覺感官議題，大約要在十一世紀中葉之後，才逐漸受到傳統中國知識分子比較專注的對待。有別於先秦以降論者們那種藉「飲食之味」以喻哲學、政治，又或是文學創作的模式，宋代的士人先是將日常飲食行爲納入階級文化規制的範疇，接著又揭櫫了一種或許可以稱之爲「清」的獨特飲食判準。而本文引用爲研討個案的《山家清供》，則又是這個新興判準的代表性著作。在以《山家清供》作爲個案主體的本文裡，與飲食相關的「清」，基本上是被劃分成「供」與「味」這兩個層面來進行研討的。拙文以爲，所謂的「清供」，在涵蓋範疇上是較爲廣泛的，而它所訴求的一些標的，基本上也可以認爲是古典時期諸多飲食思想的重新匯整。而至於在「清味」方面的研討，則主要集中在感知的方式上。而「特定烹調技法」所預示的「原味」，以及「特定食材」所能喚起的意義賦予及認同，則是拙文所認爲的兩種可能左右人們判定「味」之「清」否的重要機制。

Topics related to food and the sensation of taste did not receive much recognition from traditional Chinese intellectuals until after the mid-11(superscript th) Century. Ever since the Chin Dynasty, philosophers shared the habit of using the 'flavor of food and drink' to allude to philosophy, politics, or literature; whereas scholars in the Sung Dynasty first began incorporating the daily behavior of eating into the system of class and culture, followed by introducing a unique criterion of diet referred to as 'purity.' Pure Provender from the House in the Mountains, the case study of this dissertation, is a work that represents this new criterion. This dissertation uses Pure Provender from the House in the Mountains as the central topic, the concept of 'purity' which is relevant to diet is essentially divided into the two aspects of 'provender' and 'flavor' in order for it to be analyzed. 'Pure provender' is a rather broad concept, its objectives are basically the reorganization of food-related philosophies that existed during the classical era. The discussion over 'purity of flavor' is mainly focused on the methods of perception. The 'original flavor' indicated by 'Special Cooking Techniques' and the meaning and identification that are made possible by 'Special Ingredients' are the two important mechanisms that the author believes could influence people's judgement of whether or not a 'flavor' is 'pure.'