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題名：由管理視角分析建成遺產、博物館及再利用之空間作為時尚相關活動潛在遊客動機之影響
作者：杰森
作者(外文)：Dan JasonCalinao
校院名稱：國立成功大學
系所名稱：創意產業設計研究所
指導教授：林蕙玟
學位類別：博士
出版日期：2018
主題關鍵詞：時尚；旅遊；時尚表演；時尚展覽；空間再利用；博物館；建成遺產；Fashion；Tourism；Fashion show；Fashion exhibition；Heritage；Museum；Reused space
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「時尚」這個概念對形塑一個地方的意象影響甚大，因為它能反映該地的文化。世界上許多城市因文化而享有盛名，受到時尚的影響，這些城市更被冠上時尚之都的稱號。從歷史或當代次文化的觀點而言，時尚在這些城市文化中的重要性往往能透過觀察過去人們使用的材料用品；像是服飾的類型或傾向得知。隨著時尚成為一種文化的認知，這份認同感帶給許多機構(學校)與個體(設計者)創建個人品牌的契機，「時尚」這個稱謂不僅成為城市中個人品牌的代名詞，更成為實際發展自創品牌的中心。這些發展機會亦伴隨其它活動的產生，譬如人們會透過購物或參觀展覽的方式，最終使這些發展時尚的地方成為吸引遊客觀光旅遊的勝地。這種情況說明了屬於既有城市文化世界之外的人們如何受這些地方吸引，進而能夠欣賞由時尚所展示的無形(文化)及有形(實體產品)的特質。
在上述例子中時尚的傳播常透過兩種形式的活動來表現：商品以及手工藝品。舉例來說，時尚表演常是為了炫耀設計者對新一季時裝的收藏而舉辦。這些時裝後來通常成為陳列和待價而沽的商品。而時尚展覽則將這些手工藝品(像時裝)轉變為適合於博物館展示的展覽品。不論是時尚表演還是時尚展覽，它們都將現代的物品與時尚結合使之成為可供消費的商品，同時也體現了這些物品在歷史、文化上的價值，或各種由策展人賦予的意義。近來的研究顯示越來越多和時尚有關的活動選擇在非人們所習以為常的地點舉辦。這些地方往往仍保有傳統的文物價值或透過空間再利用的形式賦予新用途。對於那些已成為觀光旅遊景點的場所，無論具備文化或歷史遺產的價值，找出為何與時尚相關的活動會選擇這些地點舉行，以及它們建築結構本身如何因應空間適應性再利用的目的規劃成為文化旅遊中的某個景點，都值得深入探討。今日有些景點被認為是時尚的文化之都才具有，它們在旅遊業中有著舉足輕重的角色。然而，其它一些開始在展場舉辦時尚表演或展覽的城市，它們還沒有足以吸引遊客的景點，也沒有經空間再利用方式而舉辦時尚相關活動的景點所擁有的影響。
儘管與時尚相關的活動可能不是潛在遊客參觀場館所在地以及參觀場所的關鍵因素，但對時尚和時裝表演感興趣可促進管理，建築遺產及博物館的經營或空間的再利用，經營者也能以更有創意和生產力的方式利用他們的場地。雖然從時裝表演和場地圖像拍攝前後的結果並未發現這些事件對潛在旅遊者的興趣帶來影響，但這並不意味著具有建築遺產，博物館或重複使用空間的建築物將停止它們在工業和文化背景下被用來促進提升時尚的機會。透過適當的時尚產品和活動促銷手段，對時尚和時裝表演的興趣也可以從商業層面轉移到文化層面，而不犧牲場地的價值。場地使用者基本上可能不會將時裝表演或展覽的建築物及其結構的價值納入其中，因此管理人員和運營商可以制定規則，使場地用戶也能夠將這些價值作最有效的推廣。在旅遊業背景下，遊客或觀光客常會忽略建築遺產，博物館或重複使用的空間本身的價值。因為這些建築物往往構成著名旅遊景點的實際背景，參觀者可能只注意景點本身，對建築物僅僅只是看到甚至視而不見，所以檢視建築物內部和外部的視覺和非視覺元素對用戶和觀眾而言是必須的。儘管在展覽中主要關注的是時尚作品，但整體效果的元素整合卻可能會影響觀眾對結構和空間內在價值的理解和認識。
通過時尚相關事件的理論化過程，引起潛在遊客到特定地點旅行的興趣，在於遊客能否獲得視覺信息的重要性。在此之前，他們可能擁有任何有關場所的知識及其價值用來幫助他們認識他們對這些場所的興趣，以及對文化和時尚的興趣。而對於影響潛在訪客有興趣參觀時尚相關活動場所的過程，觀眾都是在這些場所中看到時尚相關活動的圖像而了解有關這些活動的信息。潛在的參觀者可能會事先意識到時裝相關的事件是在建築遺產，博物館和重複使用的空間中進行的，因為他們以前曾見過這些事件。然而，時裝表演或展覽以及他們以前從未意識到的場所都是通過這些圖像讓他們知道的。這樣的結果將可能影響他們拜訪場館的興趣，並進一步了解場館的價值。這整個過程說明了潛在旅遊者學習的增長，都發始於圖像信息。
Fashion is known as contributive to the image of a place for its capability to reflect its culture. Many cities around the world are known for being capitals of culture, and the influence of fashion enables these cities to be labeled as fashion capitals. Historically referential or reflected in contemporary subculture, the prominence of fashion in cultural capitals are observed mainly from material objects (e.g. clothing) that depict styles or trends. Fashion as a cultural attraction brought in opportunities for design individuals or enthusiasts to establish themselves in cities where the term fashion is used for its own brand as a place. These opportunities then give birth to leisure activities such as shopping and visiting museum exhibitions, which eventually transform the place into a tourist destination. These given circumstances demonstrate how people belonging to the outside world of this type of capital are enticed to visit in order to appreciate the intangible (culture) and tangible (product) qualities raised by fashion.
The dissemination of fashion in the examples given above is commonly done by the holding of two types of events that portray fashion objects into two types: product and artifact. Fashion shows are held to flaunt a designer’s new collection of clothing for an upcoming season, which is later on displayed and sold in stores, while fashion exhibitions transform items such as clothing into pieces that fit into the museum context. Both show and exhibition not only disperse fashion through contemporary commodities that are available for consumption, but also as objects that depict history, culture, or any interpretation that may be given by curators. Recent observation shows a prolificacy of these fashion-related events being held in various types of venues. These events are conducted in historical buildings, museums, or other similar structures that may either carry heritage value or have been given new purpose as a form of adaptive reuse. Having built heritage, museums, or reused spaces already known as tourist attractions either for cultural or historical interest, it is worth finding out how fashion-related events held in spaces aside from built heritage are able to formulate a role in the tourism of a place. A number of these places are already branded as cultural capitals of fashion, which may reinforce their position in the tourism context. However, other cities that conduct fashion shows and exhibitions in the venues previously given are emerging or may still emerge as potential tourist attractions through the impact of the phenomenon that fashion-related events held in built heritage may have.
Although fashion-related events may not be a factor of interest for potential tourists to visit the places where the venues are located as well as visit the venues, having interest in fashion and fashion shows can encourage management or operators of built heritage, museums, or reused spaces to reconsider this interest in making use of their venues more creatively and productively. Even though the results from pre- and post-viewing of images taken from fashion shows and venues yielded no significant finding on such events’ influence on potential tourist interest to travel, this does not mean that structures with built heritage, museums, or reused spaces cease the opportunity to be utilized for the promotion of fashion in industry and cultural context. Interest in fashion and fashion shows can also be transposed from the commercial side to the cultural side through proper means of fashion product and event promotion without sacrificing the value that the venue may possess. Venue users may not primarily incorporate the value of the building or structure for their fashion shows or exhibitions; therefore, managers and operators can set regulations on enabling such values to be included by the venue users for optimal promotion. In the tourism context, the value of built heritage, museums, or reused spaces may be neglected by tourists or visitors because of these structures’ factual background as famous tourist attractions or simply buildings to be seen but not fully appreciated. The inclusion of both visual and non-visual elements of the buildings’ interior and exterior cannot be overseen by users and viewers. Although the main attention is on fashion pieces during the show or exhibition, the amalgamation of elements makeup for the overall effect that can impact viewers’ understanding and recognition of the intrinsic values of structure and space.
Theorizing the process of fashion-related events in inducing potential tourists’ interest to travel to a specific location emphasizes the importance of visual information that the tourists obtain, which is preceded by any prior amount of knowledge they may have of the venue and their values that can help them recognize them as well their interest on these venues, the tourist’s interest on culture and fashion. The influential process for potential visitor’s interest to visit the venues of fashion-related events, by which learning about these events being held in the said venues comes during the time the viewers see the images of the fashion-related events. Potential visitors may have prior awareness of fashion-related events being held in built heritage, museums, and reused spaces by having seen them before. However, the fashion shows or exhibitions and the venues they have not been previously aware of are made known to them through these images. The result may affect their level of interest to visit the venues and know more about their values. Throughout the process illustrates the potential tourist’s increased learning, whereby images become the initiators.
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American Alliance of Museums
http://www.aam-us.org
Business of fashion
www.businessoffashion.com
Grand Palais
http://www.grandpalais.fr/en
Guggenheim Museum European cultural brand 2017
http://www.dw.com/en/european-cultural-brand-awards-2017-bilbaos-guggenheim-museum-wins-top-prize/a-41315395)
Museums Association in the UK
http://www.museumsassociation.org
Museum and Library Services Act
https://www.imls.gov
Palace of Versailles
http://www.worldheritagesite.org/list/Versailles
https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/world-heritage/versailles/
http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/83
Top tourist destinations
https://www.e-unwto.org/toc/unwtotfb/current)
Tourism Alliance UK
http://www.tourismalliance.com/downloads/TA_395_420.pdf
17 of the Most Architecturally Significant Fashion Shows
https://www.architecturaldigest.com/gallery/architecture-at-fashion-shows/all
 
 
 
 
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