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題名:從「傳統咖啡」至「精品咖啡」:越南大叻Cầu Đất小農精品咖啡產業鏈的形成與發展
作者:武黎全科
作者(外文):Vu Le Toan Khoa
校院名稱:國立暨南國際大學
系所名稱:東南亞學系
指導教授:龔宜君
學位類別:博士
出版日期:2022
主題關鍵詞:越南商品鏈商品化行動者網絡理論Cầu Đất精品咖啡Vietnamcommodity chaincommercializationactor-network theoryCau Dat specialty coffee
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越南的咖啡是在19世紀末葉由法國引進,但是當時咖啡的產量相對不高。從1975年至2015年的時間,越南咖啡的產量增加超過200倍,成爲世界咖啡第二大生產國,在世界咖啡貿易中佔有重要的地位。不過,國際咖啡協議在1989年7月4日起的失效,導致了全球咖啡貿易的混亂,到了2000年8月,咖啡價格完全崩潰,導致許多農民負債累累。其次,在全球咖啡商品鏈中,跨國企業和大型連鎖零售商所壟斷與控制,大部分利潤皆由咖啡跨國企業和大型連鎖零售商所賺取,咖啡農僅能分得其中極微薄利潤。接著,這幾年來,地球暖化造成全球氣候變遷現象,影響咖啡豆的質量,也雪上加霜的影響著咖啡農的生計。
本論文主要以商品鏈概念、商品化概念與行動者網絡理論為基礎來探討全球咖啡市場對越南大叻Cầu Đất經濟社會、Cầu Đất小農與Cầu Đất咖啡產業的影響,以及Cầu Đất精品咖啡生產鏈形成及發展的過程。本論文發現,爲了生存,生產傳統咖啡的Cầu Đất小農一方面採取「以量補價」對策,過度使用化肥增加咖啡產量,造成地力退化,環境污染和降低咖啡品質。另一方面,爲了增加收入,他們會種植多元化的作物。不過,這都只是「暫時的策略」。
本論文也發現,在越南政府鼓勵及推動經濟企業與生產者實行合作生產及銷售產品的政策之下,Cầu Đất小農與咖啡公司或合作社建立了「共生的咖啡關係」,他們選擇以重新商品化Cầu Đất咖啡的方式,提升咖啡的品質,進入精品咖啡的全球商品鏈。走上「精品咖啡」生產之路後,他們有不少機會建立商機,收入獲得改善,提高自己的社會地位及擴大其社會網絡。同時,這也讓Cầu Đất與世界連結起來,對於Cầu Đất社會經濟的發展具有正面的效果。
不過,本研究也發現,有些受訪者因家庭人力不足、資本不足、公司/合作社要求咖啡品質太嚴格或收購價格不如他們的期待等因素,因此他們無法或決定不加入公司/合作社精品咖啡生產鏈。此外,在走上「精品咖啡」之路,Cầu Đất農民、咖啡公司/合作社與Cầu Đất精品咖啡產業面臨一些挑戰,他們需要勇於克服這些困難,帶動Cầu Đất精品咖啡產業永續發展。
Coffee was introduced to Vietnam by France at the end of the 19th century, and at that time the production of coffee was relatively low. From 1975 to 2015, the production of coffee in Vietnam underwent a 200-fold increase, as the country became the second largest producer of coffee in the world and claimed an important position in the coffee trade world. However, the International Coffee Agreement officially ended on July 4, 1989, resulting in a chaotic free-for-all in the global coffee trade; by August 2000 coffee prices collapsed completely, leaving many farmers deeply indebted. Secondly, in the global coffee commodity chain, transnational corporations and large chain retailers are monopolized and controlled, and most of the profits are earned by them, while only a very small profit is available to the farmers. Then, in the past few years, global warming has caused worldwide climate change, which has affected the quality of coffee beans and worsened the livelihoods of coffee farmers.
Based on the concept of commodity chain, commercialization and actor-network theory, this paper mainly explores the impact of the global coffee market on the economy and society of Cau Dat, this area’s small farmers and its coffee industry, and the process of formation and development of the specialty coffee industry chain in the Cau Dat area of Da Lat, Vietnam. This paper has found that, in order to survive, Cau Dat smallholder farmers, who produce traditional coffee, on the one hand have adopted the strategy of “increase quantity to compensate for low prices” by excessive use of chemical fertilizers, resulting in soil degradation, environmental pollution, and lower coffee quality. Yet, on the other hand, in order to increase their income, they diversify their crops. However, this is only a "temporary strategy".
Most importantly, this paper finds that under the Vietnamese government's policy of encouraging economic enterprises and producers to implement cooperative production and sales of products, Cau Dat small farmers have established a "symbiotic coffee relationship" with coffee companies/cooperatives. These farmers re-commercialize coffee production by improving the quality of coffee in order to enter the global specialty coffee commodity chain. After embarking on the road of "specialty coffee" production, farmers have more opportunities to establish business opportunities by themselves, increase their income, improve their social status and expand their social network. Coffee production also connects Cau Dat with the world, which has a positive effect on the social and economic development of Cau Dat.
However, this study also found that some respondents were unable or decided not to join the company/cooperative specialty coffee production chain due to factors such as insufficient family manpower, inadequate capital, the company/cooperative's requirements for coffee quality are too strict, or the purchase price was not as good as the farmers expected. In addition, Cau Dat farmers, coffee companies/cooperatives, and the Cau Dat specialty coffee industry are facing some challenges when embarking on the road of "specialty coffee", as they need to overcome these difficulties to drive the sustainable development of the Cau Dat specialty coffee industry.
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Vicol, M., Neilson, J., Hartatri, D., & Cooper, P. (2018). Upgrading for whom? Relationship coffee, value chain interventions and rural development in Indonesia. World Development, 110, 26-37.
Wang, C. Q. (2018). A study on the situation and development of the coffee industry in Thailand. Master’s thesis, Business Administration, Siam University, Thailand.
三、越文部分
An, P. (2015). Người Việt ở Tây Nguyên: Lược sử hình thành và quan hệ tộc người「Vietnamese people in the Central Highlands: A brief history of formation and ethnic relations」. Retrieved 20 May 2019, from https://dised.danang.gov.vn/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=6gTxPTk8FnE%3D&tabid=62
Chi, T.T.Q. (2007). Hồ sơ ngành hàng cà phê Việt Nam「Profile of Vietnam’s coffee industry」. Retrieved 20 April 2019, from https://hoangthitrucquynh.weebly.com/uploads/4/6/4/2/4642280/ho_so_nganh_hang_ca_phe.pdf
Đạt, N. T. (2011). Báo cáo phân tích ngành cà phê「Coffee industry’s analysis report」. Retrieved 20 April 2019, from https://www.stockbiz.vn/Reports/5597/bao-cao-phan-tich-nganh-ca-phe.aspx
Giang, T. T. (2012). Nghiên cứu phát triển sản xuất cà phê bền vững trên địa bàn tỉnh Đắk Lắk「Researching of developing sustainable coffee production in Dak Lak province」. PhD’s thesis, Hanoi University of Agriculture, Ha Noi, Vietnam.
Hãn, H. X. et al., (2008). Đà Lạt xưa「Da Lat in ancient time」, Nhà xuất bản Văn hóa Sài Gòn ( Sai Gon Culture Publishing House ).
Hóa, N. V. (2014). Phát triển cà phê bền vững trên địa bàn tỉnh Đắk Lắk 「The sustainable development of coffee in Dak Lak province」. PhD’s thesis, Hue University, Hue, Vietnam.
Hoàn, N. (2011). Bảo vệ thương hiệu “cà phê Buôn Mê Thuột”「Protecting the brand "Buon Me Thuot coffee"」, Cà Phê Việt Nam, chuyên đề 8 (Vietnam coffee, vol 8) , 9-10.
Hồng, T. (2011). Nghiên cứu các giải pháp tổ chức sản xuất cà phê nguyên liệu chất lượng cao ở vùng Tây Nguyên「Studying the solutions for production of high quality raw coffee in the Central Highlands」, Viện Khoa học kỹ thuật Nông Lâm nghiệp Tây Nguyên (Western Highlands Ariculture & Forestry Science Institute).
IPSARD (2017). Báo cáo chuỗi giá trị ngành hàng cà phê tại Lâm Đồng「Report on coffee value chain in Lam Dong」.
JICA & VASS. (2015). Dự án hỗ trợ tỉnh Lâm Đồng xây dựng mô hình phát triển nông nghiệp theo hướng tiếp cận đa ngành và cải thiện môi trường đầu tư trong nông nghiệp「Project for Upgrading Infrastructure For Agriculture Enhancement in Lam Dong Province」.
Khánh, N. V. 2013. Nghiên cứu về quyền sở hữu đất đai ở Việt Nam「On the Land Ownership in Vietnam」. Tạp chí Khoa học ĐHQGHN, Khoa học Xã hội và Nhân văn (VNU Journal of Science: Social Sciences and Humanities) , 29(1), 1-16.
Linh, N. T. P. (2017). Phân tích sự tham gia vào chuỗi giá trị toàn cầu của ngành cà phê Việt Nam「Analyze the participation in the global value chain of Vietnam's coffee industry」. Tạp chí nghiên cứu Châu Phi & Trung Đông (Journal of Africa and Middle East Studies), 07(143) , 42-51.
Nghĩa, N. V. (2015). Phát triển cây cà phê trên địa bàn thị xã Buôn Hồ tỉnh Đắk Lắk 「The developing of coffee in Buon Ho, Dak Lak province」. Master’s thesis, Da Nang University, Da Nang, Vietnam.
Nguyên, L. T. T. (2016). Phát triển sản xuất cà phê trên đại bàn huyện Eah’Leo tỉnh Đăk Lăk「Developing coffee production in the area of Eah’Leo district, Dak Lak province」. Master’s thesis, Da Nang University, Da Nang, Vietnam.
Quỳnh, T. Đ., Lâm, B. T., Hạnh, T., & Huy, N. T. (2019). Báo cáo thị trường cà phê năm 2019「Coffee market report 2019」. Retrieved 25 December 2021, from https://cdn.vietnambiz.vn/2020/1/20/bao-cao-thi-truong-ca-phe-nam-20191579526264-15795267222611382133113.pdf
Thứ, T. S. (2008). Địa chí Đà Lạt「Da Lat Geography」, Nhà xuất bản tổng hợp Thành Phố Hồ Chí Minh ( Ho Chi Minh City General Publishing House).
Thực, V. V. (2014). Tín dụng ngân hàng đối với phát triển cây cà phê ở tỉnh Lâm Đồng「Bank credit for coffee tree development in Lam Dong province」. Tạp chí Phát triển & Hội nhập (Journal of Development and Integration) ,15 (25) , 75-80.
Toàn, P. N. (2008). Ảnh hưởng của các yếu tố đầu vào đến hiệu quả kinh tế cây cà phê tỉnh Đăk Nông「Influence of the input factors on economic efficiency of coffee in Dak Nong province」. Master’s thesis, University of Economics Ho Chi Minh city, Ho Chi Minh city, Vietnam.
Trinh, P. T., Linh, P. X., Thu, D. C., & Tiến, T. M. (2013). Hiện trạng canh tác và hiệu quả sản xuất cà phê trên đất đỏ BaZan huyện Krông Năng, Tỉnh Đắk Lắk「Current Status of Coffee Cultivation and Production Efficiency on Basaltic Soils in Krong Nang District, Dak Lak Province」. Tạp chí khoa học và phát triển, Đại học nông nghiệp Hà Nội (Journal of Science and development, Ha Noi University of Argriculture), 11(05) , 713-721.
Trúc, P. T. T., & Hạnh, N. T. T. (2017). Mối liên kết giữa các tác nhân trong chuỗi giá trị sản phẩm cà phê khu vực Tây Nguyên「The linkage between actors coffee value chain in the Central Highland of Vietnam」. Tạp chí khoa học và công nghệ, Đại học Đà Nẵng (Journal of Science and Technology, The University of Danang), 02 (111) , 114-117.
Trường, N. X., & Hiền, N. S. (2000). Truyền thống cách mạng của Đảng bộ và nhân dân xã Xuân Trường (1930-2000)「Revolutionary tradition of the Party Committee and people of Xuan Truong commune (1930-2000)」, Ban thường vụ Đảng ủy xã Xuân Trường ( Standing Committee of the Party Committee of Xuan Truong Commune ).
Tuyến, D. V., Nguyệt, B. T. M., Khang, L. N., & Bảo, T. Q. (2019). Thực trạng sản xuất nông nghiệp trên đất lâm nghiệp ở khu vực Tây Nguyên「Actual status of Agricultural production on forest land in the Central Highlands of Vietnam」, Tạp chí nông nghiệp và phát triển nông thôn ( Sciene and Technology Journal of Agriculture & Rural Development ), 13, 151-158.
VBCSD. (2015). Báo cáo tóm tắt: Năng lực cạnh tranh của ba ngành chè,cà phê & cao su「Summary report: Competitiveness of the tea, coffee & rubber」.
VCCB (2016). Bộ tài liệu hướng dẫn sản xuất cà phê bền vững「A guide to sustainable coffee production」. Nhà xuất bản nông nghiệp (Agricultural publisher).
四、網路部分
越南《人民報》(2015)。〈越南大叻阿拉比卡咖啡征服世界咖啡爱好者〉,查閲時間2019/04/25:https://zh.vietnamplus.vn/%E8%B6%8A%E5%8D%97%E5%A4%A7%E5%8F%BB%E9%98%BF%E6%8B%89%E6%AF%94%E5%8D%A1%E5%92%96%E5%95%A1%E5%BE%81%E6%9C%8D%E4%B8%96%E7%95%8C%E5%92%96%E5%95%A1%E7%88%B1%E5%A5%BD%E8%80%85/38210.vnp
駐胡志明市臺北經濟文化辦事處(2019)。越南2018年人均所得2,590美元,較2017年增加200元。查閲時間:2021/5/10。https://www.taiwanembassy.org/vnsgn/post/25632.html
環境資訊中心(2011)。巴西寒害咖啡豆看漲40%。查閲時間:2021/5/10。https://e-info.org.tw/node/66352
Agro Info (2009). Chiều hướng sử dụng phân khoáng trên thế giới và Việt Nam「Trends of using mineral fertilizers in the World and Vietnam」. Retrieved 10 March 2021, from http://agro.gov.vn/vn/tID14220_Chieu-huong-su-dung-phan-khoang-tren-The-Gioi-va-Viet-Nam.html
Ban thường vụ tỉnh ủy Lâm Đồng (No date). Lịch sử Đảng bộ Tỉnh Lâm Đồng(1975-2005)「History of the Party Committee of Lam Dong Province(1975-2005)」. Retrieved 10 April 2021, from https://daihoi.lamdong.dcs.vn/dang-bo-tinh-lam-dong/lich-su-dang-bo/type/detail/id/6635/task/1859
Chuyên, T. (2017) . Cà phê khốn khó vì biến đổi khí hậu「Coffee is in trouble due to climate change」. Retrieved 10 March 2021, from https://thanhnien.vn/tai-chinh-kinh-doanh/ca-phe-khon-kho-vi-bien-doi-khi-hau-823477.html
Cổng thông tin điện tử tỉnh Đắk Lắk (2016). Cà phê: Niềm vui cuối năm và nỗi lo niên vụ mới 「Coffee: Year-end joys and new crop worries」. Retrieved 10 August 2020, from https://daklak.gov.vn/thong-tin-tuyen-truyen/-/asset_publisher/eTFgYrRjRQin/content/ca-phe-niem-vui-cuoi-nam-va-noi-lo-nien-vu-moi
Cục thống kê Tỉnh Lâm Đồng (Lam Dong Staticstic Office)
http://cucthongke.lamdong.gov.vn/?Act=2&IDMenu=9&Document=1
Dak Lak online (2021). 36 đơn vị có mẫu cà phê tham dự Cuộc thi Cà phê đặc sản Việt Nam 2020「36 companies participate in the Vietnam specialty coffee contest 2020」. Retrieved 18 February 2022, from https://baodaklak.vn/channel/3483/202003/36-don-vi-co-mau-ca-phe-tham-du-cuoc-thi-ca-phe-dac-san-viet-nam-2020-5671448/
Daklak 24 (2021). Thông tin lại kết quả cuộc thi cà phê đặc sản Việt Nam 2021「Inform again the result of Vietnam specialty coffee contest 2021」. Retrieved 18 February 2022, from https://daklak24h.com.vn/ca-phe/67176/thong-tin-lai-ket-qua-cuoc-thi-ca-phe-dac-san-viet-nam-2021.html
Đào, H. A. (2016). Quá trinh khai phá Đồng Nai-Gia Định thời Chúa Nguyễn「The process of exploring Dong Nai-Gia Dinh under the Nguyen Dynasty」. Retrieved 20 May 2021, from https://nghiencuulichsu.com/2016/09/19/quan-trinh-khai-pha-dong-nai-gia-dinh-thoi-chua-nguyen/
Hoàng, L., & Trang, Q. (2016). Những đêm dài thiếu đói trước Đổi Mới「Long nights of hunger before Doi Moi」. Retrieved 20 April 2021, from https://vnexpress.net/nhung-dem-dai-thieu-doi-truoc-doi-moi-3510323.html
International Coffee Organization http://www.ico.org/monthly_coffee_trade_stats.asp
Khôi, C. (2017). Ngành cà phê Việt và “cuộc chơi” của giới thương lái「Vietnamese coffee industry and the "game" of traders」. Retrieved 29 April 2020, from http://vneconomy.vn/thi-truong/nganh-ca-phe-viet-va-cuoc-choi-cua-gioi-thuong-lai-20170914095925621.htm
Lâm Đồng online (2019). Đi tìm làn hương đích thực Moka「Looking for the authentic scent of Moka」. Retrieved 2 July 2021, from http://www.dalat-info.vn/vn/tin-tuc/%C3%B0i-tim-lan-huong-dich-thuc-moka-bai-1-39551.phtml
Nhạn, Đ. T. (2007). Khẳng định thương hiệu cà phê Việt「Affirming Vietnamese coffee brand」. Retrieved 23 April 2019, from http://vietnam.vnanet.vn/Internet/DesktopModules/BaoAnh/Print/Print.aspx?I D_Cat=2&ID_NEWS=10332&language=vi-VN&number=2&year=2008
Nhạn, Đ. T. (2019). Bức tranh xuất khẩu cà phê Việt Nam niên vụ 2005/06「The picture of Vietnam’s coffee exports in the crop 2005/06」. Retrieved 7 July 2020, from http://agro.gov.vn/vn/tID3020_BuC-TRANH-XUaT-KHaU-Ca-PHE-VIeT-NAM-NIEN-Vu-200506.html
SCAA (No date).Question: What is Specialty Coffee. Retrieved 10 December 2021, from http://www.scaa.org/?d=what-is-specialty-coffee&page=resources
Thanh nien online (2019). Cà phê Arabica ở Lâm Đồng bị bọ xít muỗi tấn công「Arabica coffee in Lam Dong was attacked by Mosquito bugs」. Retrieved 18 June 2021, from https://thanhnien.vn/ca-phe-arabica-o-lam-dong-bi-bo-xit-muoi-tan-cong-post827956.html
Thắm, H. (2021). Thay đổi ''số phận'' hạt cà phê「Change the 'fate' of coffee beans」. Retrieved 10 January 2022, from http://baolamdong.vn/kinhte/202105/thay-doi-so-phan-hat-ca-phe-3059365/index.htm
Thắng, P. (2019). Khan hiếm nguồn nhân lực thu hoạch cà-phê「Scarcity of human resources for harvesting coffee」. Retrieved 23 April 2019, from https://www.nhandan.org.vn/kinhte/tin-tuc/item/42608302-khan-hiem-nguon-nhan-luc-thu-hoach-ca-phe.html
The editors of Coffee&Climate (2015). Climate Change Adaptation in Coffee Production. Retrieved 2 January 2022, from https://toolbox.coffeeandclimate.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/cc-step-by-step-guide-for-climate-change-adaptation-in-coffee-production.pdf
The editors of Daklak Provincial People’s Committee (2015). 42 samples registered for Qualifying Round of Vietnam’s Specialty Coffee Competition 2019. Retrieved 1 January 2022, from https://daklak.gov.vn/web/english/-/42-samples-registered-for-qualifying-round-of-vietnam-s-specialty-coffee-competition-2019
The editors of Lam Dong online (2019). Đi tìm làn hương đích thực Moka「Looking for the authentic scent of Moka」. Retrieved 10 March 2021, from http://baolamdong.vn/kinhte/201907/i-tim-lan-h%C6%B0%C6%A1ng-%C4%91ich-th%E1%BB%B1c-moka-bai-1-2954536/
The editors of Luxuo (2019). ECOXURY: Là Việt Coffee – Trở về nông nghiệp sạch để giữ giá trị nguyên bản cho hạt cà phê「ECOFURY: La Viet Coffee – Returning to clean agriculture to keep the original value of coffee beans」. Retrieved 5 April 2021, from https://luxuo.vn/lifestyle/gastronomy/la-viet-coffee-tro-ve-nong-nghiep-sach-de-giu-gia-tri-nguyen-ban-cho-hat-ca-phe.html
The editors of Socencoop (No date). Cẩm nang đào tạo cán bộ chủ chốt hợp tác xã 「Training guide for key staff of cooperatives」. Retrieved 10 March 2021, from http://socencoop.org.vn/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Cam-nang-dao-tao-can-bo-HTX-Bai-3-Compatibility-Mode.pdf
Thông tin thị trường nông sản (2017). Chính sách ngành hàng cà phê「coffee policy」. Retrieved 25 December 2021, from http://thitruongnongsan.gov.vn/vn/tID24992_Chinh-sach-nganh-hang-ca-phe-.html
Thúy, P. T. (2018). Từ khoán hộ đến quản lý nông nghiệp「From household contracts to Agricultural Management」. Retrieved 12 April 2021, from https://thongtinphapluatdansu.edu.vn/2018/03/17/tu-khon-ho-den-doi-moi-trong-nng-nghiep/
Tổng cục thống kê (General Staticstic Office) https://www.gso.gov.vn/default.aspx?tabid=718
Tuổi trẻ online (2017). Đầu tư 170 tỷ đồng phát triển cà phê chất lượng cao「Invest 170 billion VND to develop high quality coffee」. Retrieved 8 January 2022, from https://tuoitre.vn/dau-tu-170-ty-dong-phat-trien-ca-phe-chat-luong-cao-20171123113803685.htm
Tỷ, H. (2020). Lâm Đồng: Phát triển cà phê đặc sản tham gia chuỗi giá trị toàn cầu 「Lam Dong: Developing specialty coffees to join the global value chain」. Retrieved 5 April 2021, from https://congthuong.vn/lam-dong-phat-trien-ca-phe-dac-san-tham-gia-chuoi-gia-tri-toan-cau-144097.html
Ủy ban nhân dân tỉnh Lâm Đồng (2016). Quyết định ban hành quy chế quản lý và sử dụng nhãn hiệu chứng nhận “Cà phê Cầu Đất Đà Lạt”「 Promulgating regulations on management and using of certification "Cau Dat Da Lat Coffee" trademark」. Retrieved 15 January 2022, from https://datafiles.chinhphu.vn/cpp/files/vbpq/2016/08/25-ld.signed.pdf
Việt, Q (2011). Hành trình cà phê Việt「Vietnam coffee journey」. Retrieved 10 February 2021, from https://tuoitre.vn/hanh-trinh-ca-phe-viet---ky-3-buoc-ngoat-428632.htm
Wikipedia (No date). Thời bao cấp「The subsidy period」. Retrieved 10 June 2021, from https://vi.wikipedia.org/wiki/Th%E1%BB%9Di_bao_c%E1%BA%A5p

 
 
 
 
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