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題名：從消費者觀點探討服裝永續設計之關鍵要素
作者：張怡婷 引用關係
作者(外文)：Chang,YI-TING
校院名稱：國立雲林科技大學
系所名稱：設計學研究所
指導教授：范國光
學位類別：博士
出版日期：2023
主題關鍵詞：從搖籃到搖籃；循環經濟；ANP網絡分析法；三重底線架構；企業社會責任；永續發展目標；Cradle to Cradle；Circular Economy；Triple Bottom Line Architecture；Analytic Network Process；Corporate Social Responsibility；Sustainable Development Goals
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在全球範圍內，處理紡織廢料的問題日益受到關注，本文聚焦在世界第二大汙染源，時尚產業中的服裝產業為例。人類長期以來忽略保護地球與維持生物多樣性的覺知能力，我們必須有所體悟，並為此做出有效的行動是本研究的主要動機。主要研究目的有以下兩點：1. 透過專家力量建構出服裝永續發展的關鍵要素 ，2. 透過消費者之決策方案，瞭解喜愛快時尚的消費者對永續設計的認知位置，以促進服裝永續設計作為主要發展目標。
研究方法採用ANP網絡分析法，針對130位喜好快時尚的消費者做為目標受測者，挑選其中年平均消費件數超過平均值，以及InC.I.≦0.1的10位消費者作為研究對象，並透過Super Decisions決策軟體作為研究工具，從社會責任理論、搖籃到搖籃、三重底線、循環經濟的核心概念出發，訪談產、學、官、研的服裝領域的10位專家，並結合徳菲爾法構建了一個具有4個核心維度和12個關鍵標準的永續發展關鍵要素的模型，即目標–準則–方案三個層次。目標層：服裝永續發展的4個核心準則為「思想意識」、「使用意識」、「產品意識」、「循環意識」；次準則層為： 「反思」、「創意」、「覺知」、「耐用」、「降耗」、「環保」、「珍惜」、「轉送」、「修改」、「回收」、「改造」、「拆解」，決策方案層為「企業責任端」、「設計產品端」和「消費者端」。研究結果如下：消費者認為影響服裝永續發展的決策方案是「消費端」，而影響永續設計最重要的綠色評估排名第一是「覺知」，研究結果發現喜愛快時尚的消費者，對12個服裝永續關鍵要素的評估，以思想意識最為重要。透過本研究更清楚知道，該目標族群對永續設計的認知位置，可為服裝行業的永續設計提供重要的參考標準，為實踐服裝永續設計開啟了一個重要參考依據。
In the global context, the problem of textile waste treatment has been receiving increasing concern. This study focused on the fashion industry in the apparel industry—the second largest pollution source in the world. Human beings have neglected the ability to protect the earth and maintain biodiversity for a long time. We must understand and take effective actions for this is the main motivation of this study. The main research purposes are as follows:1. Construct the key elements of sustainable clothing development through the strength of experts; 2. Understand the cognition position of fast fashion consumers on sustainable design through consumers' decision-making plans, and promote sustainable clothing design as the main development Goals.
This study used the ANP analytic hierarchy process and selected 10 consumers whose consumption number exceeded the average number and InC.I.≦0.1 as the research subjects among 130 respondents who like fast fashion. This study used the decision software of Super Decisions as a research tool, started from the core concepts of social responsibility theory, cradle to cradle, and circular economy, and interviewed ten experts in the field of apparel in production, education, government, and research fields. Combined with the Delphi Technique, a model of critical factors for sustainable development with four core dimensions and 12 critical standards was constructed. The three levels of goal-criteria-plan. Target layer: The four core principles of sustainable development of clothing are "Ideology", "User awareness", "Product awareness", and "Circular awareness"; the sub-criteria are: "reflection", "creative", and "awareness" , "durable", " reduce", "Eco-Friendly", "cherish", "Deliver", "modify", "recycling", "remarking", "disassembled", the decision-making level is "Corporate Responsibility ", " Product Design " and "Consumer Spending”. The study results are as follows: Consumers believed that the first critical factor affecting the sustainable development of the apparel industry is the consumer end, and the most important factor affecting sustainable design is “awareness” in green assessment. The research results show that regarding green assessment projects, the most important factor was the awareness of consumers who liked fast fashion, which is the most critical factor in determining the sustainable development of the apparel industry. It is expected that this study can provide important reference standards for sustainable design in the apparel industry.
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