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題名:十六世紀英格蘭的服飾法
書刊名:新史學
作者:林美香 引用關係
作者(外文):Lin, May-shine
出版日期:2010
卷期:21:1
頁次:頁91-148
主題關鍵詞:禁奢法服飾法王室詔令社會秩序社會區隔Sumptuary lawsClothing lawsRoyal proclamationsSocial orderSocial distinction
原始連結:連回原系統網址new window
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  • 被引用次數被引用次數:期刊(2) 博士論文(0) 專書(0) 專書論文(0)
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  • 點閱點閱:142
本文以十六世紀英格蘭的服飾法為主要研究對象。過去這類法律多列在「禁奢法」之下討論,但禁奢法內容涵蓋甚廣,本文僅討論禁奢法中與約制穿著有關者,並獨列一類為「服飾法」。英格蘭服飾法的數量在十六世紀達到高峰,但大多數法條因執行成效不佳,徒具形式,不過本文將這些法律內容視為「論述」,跳脫其執行成效的困境,轉求服飾法所代表的諸多意涵。本文的研究包含三個面向,分別是:服飾法頒布的動機、服飾法推行的目標、服飾法所彰顯的政治、社會與文化意義。本文以各次服飾法的「序言」為基礎,分述服飾法頒布的五項動機,解釋服飾法在十六世紀大量增加的原因,並指出這些動機的共同特徵在追求良善秩序。在目標面,本研究則以具體的法條為主要材料,指出都鐸時期服飾法中,階級等第的劃分變化最多,其主要目標在建立社會區隔,維護一套確實可信的「社會識別」系統。最後,本文在意義面指出,服飾法不僅能反映社會經濟結構的變化,也可以看出都鐸政府的統治思維與統治特色。更重要的是,它凸顯了服飾在近代早期文化中所扮演的角色。
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