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題名:物的寄託與延續--從最愛到遺忘,由棄置到重生
書刊名:實踐設計學報
作者:姜宗瑾許鳳玉
作者(外文):Chiang, Tsung-chinHsu, Feng-yu
出版日期:2015
卷期:9
頁次:頁210-226
主題關鍵詞:解構反時尚永續情感設計慢時尚DeconstructionDIYAnti-fashionSustainableEmotional designSlow fashion
原始連結:連回原系統網址new window
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  • 點閱點閱:15
快速時尚,提供消費者在極短的時間,以低廉的價格,就可以擁有高級時裝設計感的裝扮。因為便宜所以丟棄也不心疼,再買就可以,不知不覺中不需要的衣物越來越多,而有的或許根本沒穿過,遺忘在衣櫥的某個角落。或許是情感上的原因,或許是功能性的原因,每個人都有捨不得丟棄的物品,有些是用不到,有更多是過去累積的舊物品。它們還是維持著當時的樣貌,原封不動,沉默地躺著,等待著某一天能夠再度甦醒。想動手試試能做點什麼,賦予舊物新的使用方式。透過想要再利用,產生直接使用、拆解、重組、修復等想法,而保留下來的舊物,是對它的情感依存,而保存與維護舊物所花費的精神與時間成本更高,想要讓汰舊換新的速度慢下來,思考為何需要,為何使用,並且珍惜。個人的創作是對於快速低價時尚的叛逆。以永續時裝設計技術,從循環再用現成材料方面出發,直接使用,簡化設計及製作過程,令廢料變成有用的材料。在作品中運用了重新構造的設計方法,設計理念是保持原材料的外觀和特質,放置於人體上最適合的位置,使其穿著時能夠流暢,風格不因時間而改變。
Fast fashion- it allows consumers to capture current fashion trends quickly, cheaply from the runway. Consumers take advantage of current clothing styles at a lower price. Quick response (QR) increases production and efficiency. There is always something new to buy. We buy things we don't need, then we forget the clothing already in our wardrobe. The reason we keep so many things could be an emotional or functional attachment. Aged things have their own stories and they did not change the way they looked when they were first made. Just as if were a deep sleep and waiting for another owner. I like aged things because I think time makes them more beautiful. They are the main materiaIs I use for my collection. I think about how I can re-use materials, and how I can streamline the design and production process to make useless materials into something useful. And I think about the relationship between wanting and needing. The spirit of the collection is breaking the rule of fashion tends. For the collection I applied the reconstruction design technique. I deconstruct clothes and reassemble them in new and interesting ways. My design philosophy is to maintain the appearance and characteristics of the original materials to create an "elapsed time" look.
圖書
1.王受之(2006)。時裝史。臺北市:藝術家出版社。  延伸查詢new window
2.Fletcher, Kate、Grose, Lynda(2012)。Fashion and Sustainability: Design for Change。Laurence King Publishing Ltd.。  new window
3.Romanovska, Anna(2011)。Fashion and sustainability: design students' knowledge and attitudes: sustainability, fashion design, and consumerism: entry level fashion students' knowledge, attitudes, and habits。Germany:LAP Lambert Academic Publishing。  new window
4.English, Bonnie(2011)。Japanese fashion designers: the work and influence of Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo。USA:Berg Publishers。  new window
5.Fletcher, Kate(2008)。Sustainable fashion and textiles: design journeys。London:Earthscan。  new window
6.Mitchell, Louise(2005)。The cutting edge: Fashion from Japan。Sydney:Poewrhouse Publishing。  new window
7.Norman, Donald A.、王鴻祥、翁鵲嵐、鄭玉屏、張志傑(2011)。情感@設計:為什麼有些設計讓你一眼就愛上。台北市:遠流。  延伸查詢new window
8.O'Hara, Craig、張釗維、吳佳臻(2005)。龐克的哲學--不只是噪音。台北市:商周出版社。  延伸查詢new window
9.Margiela, Martin(2009)。Maison Martin Margiela。UK:USA:Rizzoli International Publications。  new window
10.Root, Regina A.(2008)。Fashion theory: the journal of dress, body, & culture。USA:BERG。  new window
11.Brown, Sass(2010)。Eco Fashion。Laurence King Publishing Ltd.。  new window
12.Blanchard, Tamsin、黃丹力(2009)。綠色時尚正流行。台北市:山岳出版社。  延伸查詢new window
13.山下英子、羊恩媺(2011)。斷捨離:斷絕不需要的東西,捨棄多餘的廢物,脫離對物品的執著,改變30萬人的史上最強人生整理術!。台北市:平安文化。  延伸查詢new window
14.山本耀司、滿田愛、陳品秀(2013)。山本耀司 my dear bomb。台北市:行人文化。  延伸查詢new window
 
 
 
 
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