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題名:西裝外套布料構成與質感意象的對應關係之研究
書刊名:紡織綜合研究期刊
作者:洪淑惠 引用關係莊明振 引用關係
作者(外文):Hung, S. H.Chuang, M. C.
出版日期:2006
卷期:16:4
頁次:頁38-47
主題關鍵詞:服裝設計西裝外套布料質感意象感性工學SD法Fashion designSuiting fabricsTexture imageKansei engineeringSD method
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服裝意象是社會地位的表徵之一,商界老闆們所穿的西裝與勞工們的藍色牛仔工作服,明顯地區分不同社會階層(Carr,1999)。在服裝設計中,服裝的造形意象是最重要的考慮要素。而服裝的造形,除了式樣構成外,布料質感更是影響服 裝意象的重要因素。服裝布料日新月異的技術革新,布料質感構成除物理性的各種構成因素,人們的視覺觸覺的知覺特性與心理感覺,更是質感構成意象要因。尤其是男性西裝外套在式樣上變化不大,所能用的布料質感往往決定了其服裝意象。因此,本研究運用系統化調查方法與感性工學方法,針對西裝外套布料質感構成要素與心理感意象進行相關研究。因西裝外形構成較簡明完整,在設計上布料質是的使用,其視覺與觸覺(手感)皆相當重要,兩者在服裝美感的認知缺一不可。本研究集中在當前業界的西裝設計所能用的布料材質,作為SD (Semantic Differential) 法的實戰樣本,經過專家對織法分類、物理構成的量測作出形態分 (Morphological Chart),及進行SPSS統計分析與迴歸分析等研究,結果獲得四項意象因子,並找出西裝布料意象的質感設計原則,期可充分精確地運用於西裝外套的設計實務參考。
In addition to form and style, the texture of suiting fabrics is critical to the perceived image of male coat design; varied suiting fabrics may create different fashion images. To precisely understand and grasp the constitution of texture image of suiting fabrics is essential for successful fashion design of male coats. Thus, this study investigated the constitution of texture image of suiting fabrics, by adopting the method of Kansei engineering. First, various male coat styles from the products of the major designer's brands of ready-to-wear coats between 1998 and 2002 in the five international fashion center were collected and qualitatively analyzed by three senior fashion designers of men's clothes. Consequently, a graceful and more or less archetype like suit style were decided as the representative style for representing testing fabrics. Then, four experts with 15 to 25 year professional experience were asked to select 61 representative fabrics with different texture features from this pool of candidates. Based on the features of compositional types of fabrics, density of longitude and latitude, weight, and colors and so on, the morphological analysis of the physical features of this set of samples were conducted by these experts to conclude the morphological chart of the testing samples. These samples were mounted under the boards with cutout contour of the representative style of coat and were presented to subjects for SD (Semantic Differential) evaluation on them. The factor analysis on the evaluated data has revealed four factors for constituting the image space of texture image of suiting fabrics. On the other hand, the regression analysis has established the corresponding relationship among physic characteristics of fabric texture and the perceived images which can be further applied as design principles for textile design with demanded image.
 
 
 
 
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