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題名:臺灣東北部福隆海灘類型和裂流分布之長期變動研究
書刊名:地理研究
作者:林雪美黃翊翔沈淑敏 引用關係
作者(外文):Lin, Hsueh-meiHwang, I-HsingShen, Su-min
出版日期:2009
卷期:50
頁次:頁47-65
主題關鍵詞:Beach safetyBeach stateRip currentsTime and spatial change海灘安全海灘類型裂流時空間變動
原始連結:連回原系統網址new window
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巴西南部海灘研究顯示,海灘意外的成因中有90%是來自裂流帶來的危害。鑑於國內海灘意外事件頻傳,裂流既為海灘危險的重要因子,管理當局實有必要針對海灘安全的議題加以探討。過去有關海灘模式研究的理論基礎和分類,主要來自Wright、Short 等多位學者於澳洲海灘進行的研究,其探討海灘營力機制對水下沙洲和裂流變化的影響。福隆海灘有雙溪注入,受到波浪、潮汐等海灘營力的影響,其海灘類型和裂流分布勢必也會受到河口逕流的影響。本研究即以Wright 等人於1984 年發表的海灘模式理論為基礎,透過航照的判讀,來探討福隆海灘長期以來海灘類型和裂流分布的時空間變動,並討論造成其差異的原因。 就時間而論,福隆海灘冬季海灘類型以倒轉沙洲與裂流型(TBR)為主,夏季則以反射型(REF) 至低潮位階地型(LTT)為主。探討冬半年海灘類型較夏半年偏消散之因,為波浪營力的不同所致;河口附近受逕流切穿的影響,其河口海灘類型無法適用於Wright 的海灘模式理論。本研究依河口逕流的流向為指標,對雙溪河口沙洲水下沙洲形態加以分類。結果發現福隆海灘冬季河口海灘類型不僅較偏消散的情形,其河口變化遠大於夏季河口海灘形態的變化。就空間而論,相同拍攝時間內,海域南側海灘類型較北側偏消散;造成其差異的主要成因則是局部礁岩的影響,使得海床粒徑較大,海灘類型因而偏向反射型,裂流頻數也比較低。然而不論任何時間,海域東南端受到河口切穿和人工堤防建造的影響,皆有固定離岸方向水流的存在,對於海灘遊憩者而言,需避免到該地戲水。
According to long term studies from America, Brazil, and Australia, about 90% of drowning incidents were caused by rip currents. It needs researches on the beach safety to investigate the causes. In the past, the beach classification method based on morphodynamics proposed by Wright & Short etc. discussed the influences of process on sand bars and rip currents. Supported by previous studies, we know that the Fulong Beach is not only influenced by waves and tides, but also by the run-off from Shuangsi River. This research is based on a theory developed by Wright & Short in 1984, yet it’s purpose is to investigate the profile of Fulong Beach and distributions of rip current by implementing longitudinal data of aerial photos and digitized locations of rip channel. Another significant purpose is to discuss the elements which cause the time and spatial change. To discuss the time difference, the major types of Fulong Beach were mostly TBR in the winter, and LTT and REF in the summer. The reason Fulong Beach being the dissipative in the second half year was due to the difference of wave energy. The spits of Shuangsi River were influenced by the run-off, indeed the dynamics of the river mouth can not be classified from Wright and Short’s theory. This research is based on the direction of river run-off, to define the classification for the types of sand bar of Shuangsi River. The results show the dissipative beach states and various landforms of the Fulong beach near the river mouth in winter than in summer. To discuss the spatial difference, with the same time period, the southern beach was more dissipative than the one of the north. The reason behind that is the reef and rock which cause greater bed load for reflective conditions. However, cross-shore currents have always existed on the southeastern beach due to river runoff and sea embankments.
期刊論文
1.石再添、張瑞津、林雪美(19961100)。臺灣北部河口地區之地形學研究。國立臺灣師範大學地理研究報告,26,57-115。new window  延伸查詢new window
2.張政亮(20041200)。系統工程的介紹--以海岸工程設計和分析系統(CEDAS)模式的應用為例。市師社教學報,3,87-110。new window  延伸查詢new window
3.黃翊翔、林雪美(2009)。小心海灘隱形殺手!--淺談裂流。科學研習月刊,48(4),23-26。  延伸查詢new window
4.蕭松山、蔡政翰、方惠民(20051100)。鹽寮海岸短期性養灘工作成效探討。海洋及水下科技季刊,15(3),42-50。  延伸查詢new window
5.Aagaard T.、Greenwood B.、Nielsen J.(1995)。Mean currents and sediment transport in a rip channel。Marine Geology,140,25-45。  new window
6.Ballantyne B., Carr N., and Hughes K.(2005)。Between the flags: an assessment of domestic and international university students’ knowledge of beach safety in Australia。Tourism Management,26,617-622。  new window
7.Bellotti G.(2004)。A simplified model of rip currents systems around discontinuous submerged barriers。Coastal Engineering,51,323-335。  new window
8.Benedet, L.、Finkl, C. W.、Klein A. H. F.(2004)。Morphodynamic classification of beaches on the Atlantic coast of Florida: Geographical variability of beach types, beach safety and coastal hazards。Journal of Coastal Research,SI(39)。  new window
9.Brander R. W.、Short A. D.(2000)。Morphodynamics of a large-scale rip current system at Muriwai Beach, New Zealand。Marine Geology,165,27-39。  new window
10.Damgaard J.、Dodd N.、Hall L.、Chesher T.(2002)。Morphodynamic modelling of rip channel growth。Coastal Engineering,45,199-221。  new window
11.Drønen N.、Karunarathna H.、Fredsøe J.、Sumer B. M.、Deigaard R.(2002)。An experimental study of rip channel flow。Coastal Engineering,45,223-238。  new window
12.Filho P. W. M. S.、Tozzi H. A. M.、Maâmar E. R.(2003)。Geomorphology, land-use and environmental hazards in Ajuruteua macrotidal sandy beach in northern Brazil。Journal of Coastal Research,SI(35),580-589。  new window
13.Jamie H. MacMahan、Ed B. Thornton、Ad J. H. M. Reniers(2006)。Rip current review。Coastal Engineering,53,191-208。  new window
14.Johnson D.、Pattiaratch C.(2006)。Boussinesq modelling of transient rip currents。Coastal Engineering,53,410-439。  new window
15.Reniers A. J. H. M.、MacMahan J. H.、Thornton E. B.、Stanton T. P.(2006)。Modelling infragravity motions on a rip-channel beach。Coastal Engineering,53,209-222。  new window
16.Short A. D.、Hogan(1994)。Rip currents and beach hazards, their impact on public safety and implications for coastal management。Journal of Coastal Research,SI(12),197-209。  new window
17.Short A. D.(2006)。Australian beach systems-nature and distribution。Journal of Coastal Research,22(1),11-27。  new window
18.Short A. D.(2006)。Introduction: Australian coastal geomorphology, 1984-2004。Journal of Coastal Research,22(1),11-27。  new window
19.Smith J. A.、Largier J. L.(1995)。Observations of nearshore circulation: Rip currents。Journal of Geophysical Research,100(6),10967-10975。  new window
20.Wright L. D.、Chappell J.、Bradshaw M. P.、Cowell P.(1979)。Morphodynamics of reflective and dissipative beach and inshore systems: Southeastern Australia。Marine Geology,32,105-140。  new window
21.Wright, L. D.(1977)。Sediment Transport and Deposition at River Mouths: A Synthesis。Geological Society of America Bulletin,88,857-868。  new window
22.Klein, A. H. da F.、Sanatana, G. G.、Diehl, F. L.、Menezes, J. T.(2003)。Analysis of hazards associated with sea bathing: Results of five years work in oceanic beaches of Sanata Catarina state, southern Brazil。Journal of Coastal Research,SI(35),107-116。  new window
23.Lippman, T. C.、Holman, R. A.(1989)。Quantification of sand bar morphology: A video technique based on wave dissipation。Journal of Geophysical Research,94(C1),995-1011。  new window
24.Short, A. D.(1985)。Rip current type, spacing and persistence, Narrabeen beach。Marine Geology,65,47-71。  new window
25.Turner, I. L.、Whyte, D.、Ruessink, B. G.、Ranasinghe, R.(2007)。Observations of rip spacing, persistence and mobility at a long, straight coastline。Marine Geology,236,209-221。  new window
26.Huntley, D. A.、Short, A. D.(1992)。On the spacing between observed rip current。Coastal Engineering,17,211-225。  new window
27.Wright, L. D.、Short, A. D.(1984)。Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: A synthesis。Marine Geology,56,93-118。  new window
會議論文
1.林雪美(2007)。台灣北海岸海灘安全性之地形動力學研究。全球華人地理學者學術研討會,高雄師範大學 (會議日期: 2007/4/28),1-7。  延伸查詢new window
2.林雪美(2007)。台灣河口地形動力學研究。第八屆兩岸地形學術研討會,(會議日期: 2007/8/17)。新疆烏魯木齊。1-14。  延伸查詢new window
3.林雪美(2007)。台灣北海岸白沙灣海灘安全性之動力地形學研究。第二十九屆海洋工程學術研討會,台南成功大學 (會議日期: 2007/11/29),1-6。  延伸查詢new window
4.林雪美、黃翊翔、湯凱齡(2008)。台灣北部海灘類型之比較研究。第九屆海峽兩岸地形學術研討會,高雄師範大學 (會議日期: 2008/8/28),1-14。  延伸查詢new window
5.林雪美、黃翊翔、沈淑敏(2009)。台灣東北部福隆海域海灘類型和裂流分布之短期變動研究。交通部觀光局東北角暨宜蘭海岸國家風景區管理處25週年研討會,交通部觀光局 (會議日期: 2009/6/1),5-1~5-15。new window  延伸查詢new window
6.黃翊翔、林雪美(2009)。台灣北部福隆海灘長期海灘類型和裂流分布時空間差異分析。中國地理學會地理學術研討會,台灣師範大學 (會議日期: 2007/4/26),1-15。  延伸查詢new window
學位論文
1.林永倫、蕭松山(2005)。海灘斷面形狀函數案例分析(碩士論文)。國立臺灣海洋大學。  延伸查詢new window
2.湯凱齡、林雪美(2005)。北海岸海灘安全性之地形動力學研究(碩士論文)。國立臺灣師範大學。  延伸查詢new window
3.黃俊彰、林雪美(2004)。雙溪河口沙洲地形變動之成因探討(碩士論文)。國立臺灣師範大學。  延伸查詢new window
4.黃翊翔、林雪美(2009)。臺灣北部福隆海域海灘類型和裂流分布的時空間變動研究(碩士論文)。國立臺灣師範大學。  延伸查詢new window
5.廖建明、歐善惠、許泰文(2001)。近岸風浪推算之研究(博士論文)。國立成功大學。  延伸查詢new window
6.魏文駿(2004)。碎波於斜坡後平台上水位抬生之試驗研究(碩士論文)。國立中山大學。  延伸查詢new window
7.吳宗孟(2005)。台灣地區海灘安全管理之研究(碩士論文)。國立臺灣體育學院。  延伸查詢new window
圖書
1.許泰文(2003)。近岸水動力學。中國土木水利工程學會。科技圖書。  延伸查詢new window
 
 
 
 
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