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題名:當「做花」成「做人」:施洞苗族非物質文化遺產之傳承與變遷
書刊名:民俗曲藝
作者:何兆華 引用關係
作者(外文):Ho, Zhao-hua
出版日期:2014
卷期:185
頁次:頁51-114
主題關鍵詞:施洞苗族做花非物質文化遺產記憶變遷ShidongMiaoMaking motifsIntangible cultural heritageMemoriesTransmitters
原始連結:連回原系統網址new window
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  • 被引用次數被引用次數:期刊(4) 博士論文(0) 專書(0) 專書論文(2)
  • 排除自我引用排除自我引用:1
  • 共同引用共同引用:14
  • 點閱點閱:103
本文從施洞苗族「做花」文化的角度切入,企圖從這個角度來理解「非物質文化遺產」傳承人列名一事,提供讀者窺見苗族服飾文化傳承與變遷的另一番視野。在中國西南少數民族之中,苗族最被稱道的,是口傳文學及物質文化。物質文化中,以表現生活的建築及繁華多樣的服飾為代表。然而,當女性普遍上學受教育、觀光與打工帶出人群接觸與流動後,其原先以「做花」所承載的集體文化,正逐漸轉型。隨着「非物質文化遺產」(簡稱非遺)項目獎金與光環的發燒,「苗繡」與「苗族銀飾鍛製技藝」傳承人的列名,成為地方人士競相角逐的頭銜。本文透過田野民族誌,從施洞苗族 「做花」文化的角度切入,企圖從這個面相來理解「非物質文化遺產」傳承人列名一事,對苗族服飾文化的傳承與變遷有何影響,提供讀者窺見當地人群如何在國家政策下競逐的不同面貌。文中首先從記憶的角度看不同層面的歷史圖像,再者,從施洞苗族繡花與銀花的流動,看刺繡與銀飾在內部與外部流動上的差異,藉此來釐清施洞苗族繡片與銀飾的流動中,多層次與複雜的社會關係網絡。其次,以施洞三位女性及三位銀匠,說明在這場權力的競逐的歷程中,如何運用各種主客觀條件來創造自己的各種資本,以營造自己被國家「看見」且認可的條件。最後,理解傳承人的技藝如何扮演傳承與創新的角色,以及做為傳承者,如何在面對去脈絡化後的圖像,重新創造新的意義。過去苗族以口傳及圖像來做為承載記憶的媒介,然而,當女性普遍上學受教育或外出打工後,其原先以「做花」所承載的集體記憶,如何逐漸轉型成以「做人」為核心的方式,藉此觀看現今施洞苗族圖像文化的傳承與變遷。
This paper presents an ethnographic study on intangible cultural heritage of Shidong Miao society in Southeastern Guizhou Province. It aims to describe how Miao women and silversmiths transform themselves from local elites into transmitters of intangible cultural heritage. It also explores how these individuals construct cultural capital through making and promoting embroidery and silver accessories in Shidong Miao society. This paper explores the making of embroidery and silver accessory motifs which are the core traditional handicrafts of Shidong Miao and how, as a means to protect social status and achieve a higher social position, Shidong Miao people are strengthening their publicity and turning the production of intangible cultural heritage into businesses. Making money and training younger generation are two different duties for transmitters. In the production of embroidery, transmitters focus on both making money and transforming the system of transmittance from mother to daughter into a company network. Among silversmiths, transmitters pay more attention to passing techniques to the next generation via a fatherson system and make efforts to contain these skills within a single household. This paper will present four aspects of intangible cultural heritage from Shidong. First, I will briefly recount the history of techniques for “making motifs” and decorative expression in embroidery and on silver accessories in the Shidong Miao tradition. Second, I will examine and analyze a number of embroidery and silver accessory images and explore the changes to motifs to provide an understanding of how classical images have been represented through different periods. Third, I will explore how transmitters portray their social and cultural capital through performance and in social relationships. Lastly, by situating Shidong Miao society within its historical context, I will provide an interpretation of the impact intangible cultural heritage transmitters have on Miao society through their political and economic advantages.
期刊論文
1.何兆華(20120900)。施洞苗族剪紙圖像上的戲曲與女性形象。民俗曲藝,177,161-221。new window  延伸查詢new window
2.周世英(2003)。貴州蠟染回眸及未來發展的思考。貴州大學學報(藝術版),2003(4),1-3。  延伸查詢new window
3.Oakes, Tim(2003)。Dragonheads and Needlework: Textile Work and Cultural Heritage in a Guizhou County。Provincial China,7(2),151-177。  new window
4.何兆華(20091200)。找吃找穿的時間:貴州施洞苗人曆法實踐中的我群建構。民俗曲藝,166,7-59。new window  延伸查詢new window
5.Schein, Louisa(1997)。Gender and Internal Orientalism in China。Modern China,23(1),69-98。  new window
會議論文
1.何兆華(2011)。穿戴時新花--施洞苗人銀飾的現代性。民族、民主、民生:人類學的場域,臺灣人類學與民族學學會 (會議日期: 20111008)。臺北。  延伸查詢new window
2.東旻(2004)。試論苗族服飾文化的歷史積澱。民族服飾與文化遺產研究--中國民族學學會2004年年會。昆明:雲南大學出版社。  延伸查詢new window
3.Ho, Zhao-hua(2011)。The Prudish and Civilized Fashion: Embodying Mao’s Political Power in the Embroidery of Shidong Miao。East Asian Popular Culture Association 2011 Inaugural Conference。Taipei:East Asian Popular Culture Association (EAPCA)。  new window
4.何翠萍(2002)。社群的外顯與內在--中國景頗社會結群的圖像表徵。人類學的比較與詮釋--慶祝陳奇祿教授八秩華誕國際學術研討會,國立臺灣大學人類學系 (會議日期: 20020426-20020427)。臺北。  延伸查詢new window
學位論文
1.尹紅(2011)。廣西融水苗族服飾的文化生態研究(博士論文)。中國美術學院。  延伸查詢new window
2.何兆華(2011)。Gifts to Dye For: Cloth and Person Among Shidong Miao In Guizhou Province(博士論文)。國立清華大學。new window  延伸查詢new window
圖書
1.何兆華、趙丹綺(2010)。無花無銀不成姑娘:黔東南施洞地區苗族銀飾。新莊:輔仁大學織品服裝系所中華服飾文化中心。  延伸查詢new window
2.周相卿(2012)。黔東南台江縣陽芳寨苗族文化調查與研究。貴陽:貴州民族出版社。  延伸查詢new window
3.張少華(2011)。方旎苗俗。北京:中國文聯出版社。  延伸查詢new window
4.馮驥才(2005)。苗人的靈魂--台江苗族文化空間。哈爾濱:黑龍江人民出版社。  延伸查詢new window
5.顏恩泉(2004)。雲南苗族服飾文化的傳統與發展。臺北:唐山出版社。  延伸查詢new window
6.Bourdieu, P.(1993)。The Field of Cultural。Cambridge:Polity Press。  new window
7.Tapp, Nicholas(2001)。The Hmong of China: Context, Agency, and the Imaginary。Leiden:Brill。  new window
8.Schein, Louisa(2000)。Minority Rules: The Miao and the Feminine in China's Cultural Politics。Duke University Press。  new window
9.貴州省臺江縣志編纂委員會(1994)。臺江縣志。貴州人民出版社。  延伸查詢new window
10.Gell, Alfred(1998)。Art and Agency: An Anthropological Theory。Oxford University Press。  new window
11.Durkheim, Émile、芮傳明、趙學元(1992)。宗教生活的基本形式。桂冠圖書股份有限公司。  延伸查詢new window
其他
1.(2006)。國家名錄,http://www.ihchina.cn/main.jsp, 2013/03/19。  new window
2.(2013)。中國藝術大師╱當代╱吳通英,http://www.chinablpm.com/products_detail/&productId=30e2e2a4-ae0c-46ba-a87f-f9c29e4da225&comp_stats=comp-FrontProducts_ShidongMiaost01-1325230714737.html, 2013/03/19。  new window
3.中華文化網(2009)。苗繡傳承人吳通英,http://www.56china.com/2009/1018/70054.html, 2013/03/19。  延伸查詢new window
4.井曉慧(2012)。2012 年「中國當代工藝美術雙年展」開幕,http://news.hexun.com/2012-04-17/140487246.html, 2013/03/02。  延伸查詢new window
5.文化遺產(2009)。第九期公益中國沙龍成功舉辦【新聞群組】,http://www.pubchn.com/articles/93912.htm, 2013/03/14。  延伸查詢new window
6.王勇(2002)。苗族服飾出洋記,http://www.efu.com.cn/info/technique/2002-10-10/10269.htm, 2013/03/02。  new window
7.李紹方(2013)。大山深處流動畫史--苗繡,epaper.qbnews.cn/html/.../30888_53762.html, 2013/03/14。  延伸查詢new window
8.孫海濤(2002)。十六大代表、全國勞動模範張庭珍:繡出五彩苗鄉來,http://www.qianlong.com/3050/2002-11-7/53@506955.htm, 2013/03/02。  延伸查詢new window
9.張奎(2010)。張庭珍:農村致富女強人,blog.sina.com.cn/s/blog_50fd4f450100gurh.html, 2013/03/08。  延伸查詢new window
10.張新雨(2013)。多彩貴州的香港時間。  延伸查詢new window
11.許桂香(2010)。歷史生態環境下的民族服飾文化初探--以貴州苗族為例,http://wenku.baidu.com/view/bfaff43ca32d7375a417809d.html, 2013/03/05。  延伸查詢new window
12.貴州婦女網組織部(2010)。貴州省婦聯組隊參加中國婦女創業創新成果博覽會,http://www.gzswomen.org.cn/SysHTML/Article HTML/24873_1.shtml, 2013/03/02。  延伸查詢new window
13.黃貞燕(2008)。保護非物質文化遺產公約的成立與其影響,http://www.moc.gov.tw/aboutcca/INK/4/196-198.pdf, 2013/08/05。  延伸查詢new window
14.黃維(2009)。中國民協展出中國民間文化遺產搶救工程重要成果,http://culture.people.com.cn/GB/70658/70888/10353389.html, 2013/03/02。  延伸查詢new window
15.路豔寧,虎靜(2012)。苗族銀飾邁向世界--老銀匠傳承祖輩藝術,paper.wenweipo.com, 2013/03/08。  延伸查詢new window
圖書論文
1.高冰(2006)。芳寨苗族飲食與服飾的變遷--臺江縣施洞鎮芳寨村田野調查報告。貴州世居民族研究。貴陽:貴州民族出版社。  延伸查詢new window
2.Strathern, Marilyn(1987)。Producing Difference: Connections and Disconnections in Two New Guinea Highland Kinship Systems。Gender and Kinship: Essays toward a Unified Analysis。Stanford:Stanford University Press。  new window
 
 
 
 
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