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題名:“問道於器”--辛亥以來國人著裝“西化”的成因與經過
書刊名:近代史研究
作者:楊奎松
出版日期:2020
卷期:2020(5)
頁次:25-45+160
主題關鍵詞:服裝西化孫中山國民黨中山裝
原始連結:連回原系統網址new window
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進入20世紀以來,國人著裝日漸"西化"已經成為一種必然的趨勢。這固然與鼓吹"剪發易服改元"的反滿革命者的大力推動有一定關系,但更主要的還是時代使然。清朝滿族臃腫肥大的袍褂和等級森嚴的服制,無法適應現代社會的發展,實際上在辛亥革命前,清廷就已經不得不陸續批準軍隊和學生改易便于行動的"西服"。但頗為吊詭的是,辛亥革命成功后,力主著裝"西化"的孫中山,卻并未實施"易服"的措施,反倒是繼任臨時大總統的袁世凱發布了中國歷史上最具"西化"特色的一個《服制》令。1929年國民政府頒布的《服制條例》,竟又明顯地意欲延續正統而拒絕"西化",故將滿族之長袍馬褂定為國民之禮服,即后人所稱之"國服"。
Since the turn of the twentieth century,the Chinese clothing styles had been inevitably Westernized gradually. This trend was related to the anti-Manchu revolutionaries’ efforts to promote "cutting queues,changing clothing styles,and altering the reign title. "It was also shaped by the modern era,because the loose Manchu-style clothes and the strict official regulations on clothing styles could not fit in with the development of modern society. Even before the 1911 Revolution,the Qing court had permitted military men and students to change to Western style clothes. Paradoxically, after the establishment of the Republic of China,Sun Yat-sen,who advocated the Westernization of clothing styles,did not promulgate any policy to change clothing styles. Instead,Yuan Shikai issued the first government order in Chinese history to Westernize clothing styles. However, in 1929, the regulations of clothing styles promulgated by the Nationalist government plainly intended to stick to the Chinese tradition and refuse the Westernization. It stipulated the Manchu-style long gown and mandarin jacket as the formal dress for citizens,or the so-called "national dress".
 
 
 
 
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