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題名：20世紀美國Vogue雜誌中女性胸罩廣告的視覺分析
作者：楊琇如
作者(外文)：Yang, Hsiu-Ju
校院名稱：國立交通大學
系所名稱：應用藝術研究所
指導教授：陳一平
鄭靜宜
學位類別：博士
出版日期：2019
主題關鍵詞：視覺分析；廣告；服裝；胸罩；時尚；文化；Visual analysis；Advertisements；Clothing；Bra；Fashion；Culture
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本研究以美國二十世紀的胸罩廣告為研究題材，以視覺分析方式從圖片上服飾特徵進行分析後，再與當時的社會狀況進行深入探究，嘗試著從胸罩廣告的視覺符碼與意象去了解上一世紀社會文化與價值觀等。胸罩是女性最私密的日常生活必需品，自發明至今已有超過百年的歷史，因此無論男性或女性都對胸罩有著基本認識，且胸罩的樣式也依需求經過數次的轉變，尤其美國在上一個世紀（1900至2000年代）期間，胸罩開始普及在社會大眾後，造型、功能及廣告風格幾乎每數十年就有轉變。除此之外，過去研究多偏在探討廠商是如何藉由廣告的設計，將商品訊息以圖片的視覺化方式傳遞給消費者，以廣告設計的角度進行單一面向分析，而對於觀眾收看廣告圖片等的角度卻少有深入的討論，因此本研究除了以視覺分析探討胸罩廣告圖片之外，也再特別以觀眾對於廣告觀看的角度，去了解人們在觀看美國二十世紀（1900至2000年代）期間的胸罩廣告圖片時所獲得感受程度。
本研究資料來源為1900至2000年期間的美國Vogue雜誌，從雜誌中蒐集了具有胸罩商品的廣告圖片共307張為樣本，針對這些廣告圖片的商品特徵、人物、文宣與表現內容等以視覺分析法進行分析，再與當時的社會概況進行比對，探索其胸罩廣告的呈現與社會文化等之間的關連。本諄依照Rose (2006)的影像解度意義，將廣告圖片解度分為三地點（site）─廣告自身的地點（site of image itself）、廣告生產影響的地點（site of production）、以及觀眾收看的地點（site of audience）進行三個面向的分析。以廣告自身的地點可看出胸罩類型、功能、美感等特徵在二十世紀的變化，可了解胸罩自普及化後人們對於胸罩美感偏好、需求與重視的轉變，甚至也從胸罩的設計可看出美國社會對女性身體的尊重提昇；從廣告生產地點可了解胸罩廣告在上一個百年時間的視覺手法轉變，如廣告商品最初直接性的展示轉而需要靠觀眾推測的間接呈現，甚至到最後商品完全消失於畫面中只能仰賴觀眾的想像；從觀眾收看的地點探究，可反向去了解人們對二十世紀的胸罩廣告的意象、情緒感受的變化，也可從二十世紀的廣告帶給人的意象情緒推測其當時美國社會的氛圍文化。
綜合三個地點（面向）的分析，本文將二十世紀的胸罩廣告劃分出幾個時期，從這些不同的時段可看出廣告風格隨著時間變化的階段趨勢。首先，越接近近代（二十一世紀）廣告在風格上的視覺呈現則是越有頻繁的改變，正好符合二十一世紀是媒體資訊為主的時代，無遠弗屆的商品廣告與資訊透過媒體快速傳播至世界，讓消費者的視覺刺激胃口更大，廣告商需要更多心思在設計上，才能呈現更豐富的視覺變化滿足大眾的視覺喜好。再者，豐富多變的廣告設計營造行銷氛圍固然可刺激消費力，但本文研究發現民眾在選購商品時，造型特徵與功能性仍是消費者的主要重點，因此本研究建議商品的特徵或功能仍以清楚又直接的方式展列出，而非使用過於隱晦與間接的方式呈現。最後，從整個二十世紀胸罩廣告可發現女性地位的提升，從二十世紀初廣告中胸罩以束縛固定住女性身體，至二十世紀尾聲時胸罩已轉為溫柔承托乳房的象徵，呼應女權思想在二十世紀的崛起至廣泛被大眾接受的過程。進入二十一世紀後女性內衣與其他服飾勢必也會繼續隨著女性身體意象的發展，而持續演化改變下去。
This study examines advertisements of women’s bras in the United States from 1900 to 2000. We performed visual analysis of clothing characteristics presented in advertising images alongside an in-depth study of the social context. Bras have been invented for over 100 years. As a widely-used intimate item that is closely associated with women’s body images, bras can be used as a lens to examine social culture and values. Their appearance, function, and advertising style changed every few decades. Previous research has mostly focused on how manufacturers convey product information to consumers through advertisement design. However, these researchers only conducted single-aspect analysis from the perspective of advertisement design, neglecting the perspectives of viewers. Therefore, in addition to visual analysis, we also focused on the perspective of viewers to understand perceptions of bra advertisements of the 20th century in the United States.
A total of 307 sample images were collected from American Vogue magazines from the 1900s to 2000s. Visual analysis considers product characteristics, characters, text appearing on the image, and presentation modes to explore the connection between bra advertisements and social culture. Drawing on the research of Rose (2006), we consider three sites: the site of the image or object itself, the site of production, and the site of its audiencing.
In the images themselves, we can see changes in the characteristics of bra types, functions, and aesthetics over the last century, which reflect changes in public preferences and needs. The evolution in terms of the design of bras also indicates increasing respect for the female body in American society. In terms of production, presentation methods also changed. For example, older images present bras directly, while later ones imply the effect of the bra indirectly, to the point where the product can disappear completely from the image. These types of advertisements rely on the imagination of the viewer. With regard to audience, we can trace changes in public perception of these images and the emotions they evoke. These findings can be used to make further conjectures related to the socio-cultural atmosphere at that time.
Based on this analysis framework, we divided bra advertising of the twentieth century into several periods. It is interesting to note that in the later parts of the research period, the style of visual presentations begin to change more frequently. This accords with the media dominance of the 21st century, in which the rapid spread of information has given consumers an increased appetite for visual stimulation. Advertisers now need to present richer visual changes to satisfy the public's visual preferences. Rich and varied advertising design create a marketing atmosphere which stimulates viewers’ capacity to consume. However, our findings indicate that consumers still rate appearance and function as their priorities when purchasing bras. We therefore suggest that functions should be presented in a clear and direct way, rather than obscurely. Another important finding of this study was the reflection of the increasing focus on women's rights over the 20th century. The bras in the early twentieth century were advertised as necessary constraints for the wayward female body, whereas near the turn of the century, the focus of bra advertising turned to support. It seems likely that women's underwear and other clothing will continue to evolve with shifting perceptions of women's bodies.
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