記載與再定義：十七世紀前半佛羅倫斯宮廷中的土耳其風服裝與其檔案紀錄_

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題名：	記載與再定義：十七世紀前半佛羅倫斯宮廷中的土耳其風服裝與其檔案紀錄
書刊名：	臺大文史哲學報
作者：	葉嘉華
作者(外文)：	Yeh, Chia-hua
出版日期：	2022
卷期：	98
頁次：	頁163-226
主題關鍵詞：	土耳其風尚；服裝設計；十七世紀；佛羅倫斯；內務檔案；Household document；Dress design；Florence；Seventeenth century；Turquerie
原始連結：	連回原系統網址
相關次數：	被引用次數:期刊(0) 博士論文(0) 專書(0) 專書論文(0) 排除自我引用:0 共同引用:0 點閱:2

期刊論文
1.	Lemire, Beverly、Riello, Giorgio(2008)。East & West: Textiles and Fashion in Early Modern Europe。Journal of Social History，41(4)，887-916。
2.	Bevilacqua, Alexander、Pfeifer, Helen(2013)。Turquerie: Culture in Motion, 1650-1750。Past & Present，221(1)，75-118。
3.	莫妮卡．柯普琳、王靜靈(20091100)。薩克森宮廷漆匠--馬丁．舒尼爾（Martin Schnell）與其東亞的根源。故宮文物月刊，320，90-105。延伸查詢
4.	林美香(20150600)。十六、十七世紀英格蘭的服飾論述與國族認同。新史學，26(2)，51-130。延伸查詢
5.	楊小華(20180600)。音樂舞臺的異國主義--以17與18世紀的「土耳其風」為例。輔仁歷史學報，39，1-41。延伸查詢
6.	Butters, Suzanne B.(2007)。The Uses and Abuses of Gifts in the World of Ferdinando de' Medici (1549-1609)。I Tatti Studies in the Italian Renaissance，11，243-354。
7.	Currie, Elizabeth(2008)。Clothing and a Florentine style, 1550-1620。Renaissance Studies，23(1)，33-52。
8.	Franceschi, Franco(1995)。Florence and Silk in the Fifteenth Century: The Origins of a Long and Felicitous Union。Italian History & Culture，1，3-22。
9.	Fuess, Albrecht(2008)。Sultans with Horns: The Political Significance of Headgear in the Mamluk Empire。Mamlūk Studies Review，12(2)，71-94。
10.	Gönül, Macide(1969)。Some Turkish Embroideries in the collection of the Topkapi Sarayi Museum in Istanbul。Kunst des Orients，6(1)，43-76。
11.	Iida, Miki(2012)。Florentine Textiles for the Ottoman Empire in the Seventeenth Century。Mediterranean World，21，179-196。
12.	Ribeiro, Aileen(1979)。Turquerie: Turkish Dress and English Fashion in the eighteenth century。Connoisseur，201(807)，16-23。
13.	Scarce, Jennifer(1988)。Principles of Ottoman Turkish Costume。Costume，22(1)，13-31。
14.	Smith, Charlotte Colding(2013)。Depicted with Extraordinary Skill: Ottoman Dress in Sixteenth-Century German Printed Costume Books。Textile History，44(1)，25-50。
15.	Speelberg, Femke(2015)。Fashion & Virtue: Textile Patterns and the Print Revolution, 1520-1620。The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin，73(2)，4-48。
16.	Stein, Perrin(1996)。Amédée Van Loo's Costume Turc: The French Sultana。The Art Bulletin，78(3)，417-438。
17.	Thomas, Joe A.(1994)。Fabric and Dress in Bronzino's Portrait of Eleonora of Toledo and Son Giovanni。Zeitschrift fur Kunstsgeschichte，57，262-267。
18.	Wilson, Bronwen(2007)。Foggie diverse di vestire de'Turchi: Turkish Costume Illustration and Cultural Translation。Journal of Medieval and Early Modern History，37(1)，97-139。

學位論文
1.	Bercusson, Sarah(2009)。Consumption and the Female Court in Sixteenth-century Italy Gift-giving(博士論文)。Queen Mary University of London。
2.	Stein, Perrin(1997)。Exoticism as Metaphor: Turquerie in Eighteenth Century French Art(博士論文)。New York University。

圖書
1.	Jackson, Anna、Jaffer, Amin(2004)。Encounters: the Meeting of Asia and Europe 1500-1800。London：Victoria & Albert Museum Publications。
2.	Dorling Kindersley Publishing, Inc.、華藝數位股份有限公司(2013)。Fashion--服裝與時尚風格演進。華藝數位股份有限公司。延伸查詢
3.	Mack, Rosamond E.(2002)。Bazaar to Piazza: Islamic Trade and Italian Art, 1300-1600。University of California Press。
4.	Vecellio, Cesare、Rosenthal, Margaret F.、Jones, Ann Rosalind(2008)。The Clothing of the Renaissance World: Europe, Asia, Africa, The Americas: Cesare Vecellio's Habiti Antichi et Moderni。London：Thames & Hudson。
5.	Currie, Elizabeth(2016)。Fashion and Masculinity in Renaissance Florence。London：Bloomsbury Academic。
6.	Frick, Carole Collier(2002)。Dressing Renaissance Florence: Families, Fortunes, and Fine Clothing。Baltimore, Maryland：Johns Hopkins University Press。
7.	Hollingsworth, Mary(2017)。The Medici。London：Head of Zeus。
8.	Orsi-Landini, Roberta(2011)。Moda a Firenze 1540-1580: Cosimo I de' Medici's Style。Florence：Edizioni Polistampa。
9.	Sframeli, Maria(2003)。I gioielli dei Medici: dal vero e in ritratto。Livorno：Sillabe。
10.	Castiglione, Baldassarre(2000)。Il cortegiano。RCS Libri SpA。
11.	Cellini, Benvenuto(1842)。La vita di Benvenuto di Maestro Giovanni Cellini fiorentino, scritta, per lui medesimo。Pietro Fraticelli。
12.	de Busbecq, Ogier Ghiselin、Forster, Edward Seymour(2005)。The Turkish Letters of Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq。Louisiana State of University Press。
13.	Menavino, Giovanni Antonio(1548)。Trattato de costumi et vita de Turchi。
14.	Solerti, Angelo(1905)。Musica ballo e drammatica alla corte medicea dal 1600 al 1637. Notize tratte da un diario tenuto da Cesare Tinghi。R . Bemporad and Figlio。
15.	Finkel, Caroline、徐大成、鄧伯宸(2016)。鄂圖曼帝國三部曲1300-1923：奧斯曼的黃粱夢。立緖文化事業公司。延伸查詢
16.	Cellini, Benvenuto、王憲生(2018)。切里尼自傳。華滋出版社。延伸查詢
17.	Crowley, Roger、陸大鵬(2016)。海洋帝國：決定伊斯蘭與基督教勢力邊界的爭霸時代。馬可孛羅文化事業公司。延伸查詢
18.	Beckett, Sven、林添貴(2017)。棉花帝國：資本主義全球化的過去與未來。天下文化出版公司。延伸查詢
19.	Ashmore, Sonia(2012)。Muslin。V&A Publishing。
20.	Bossan, Marie-Josèphe(2004)。The Art of the Shoe。Parkstone Press。
21.	Canby, Sheila R.(2002)。The Golden age of Persian art, 1501-1722。British Museum Press。
22.	Caroscio, Marta、Arfaioli, Maurizio(2016)。The Grand ducal Medici and the Levant: Material Culture, Diplomacy, and Imagery in Early Modern Mediterranean。Harvey Miller Publishers。
23.	Currie, Elizabeth(2018)。A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Renaissance。Bloomsbury Academic。
24.	Dorini, Umberto(1934)。Statuti Dell'Arte Di Por Santa Maria Del Tempo Della Repubblica。Olschki。
25.	Erichsen, Paula Hohti(2020)。Artisans, Objects and Everyday Life in Renaissance Italy。Amsterdam University Press。
26.	Geczy, Adam(2013)。Fashion and Orientalism: Dress, Textiles and Culture from the 17th to the 21st Century。Bloomsbury。
27.	Goldberg, Edward L.(2011)。Jews and Magic in Medici Florence: The Secret World of Benedetto Blanis。University of Toronto Press。
28.	Herald, Jacqueline(1981)。Renaissance Dress in Italy 1400-1500。Bell & Hyman。
29.	Jirousek, Charlotte A.、Catterall, Sara(2019)。Ottoman Dress and Design in the West: A Visual History of Cultural Exchange。Indiana University Press。
30.	Mackenzie, John(1995)。Orientalism: History Theory and Arts。Manchester University Press。
31.	McNeil, Peter(2009)。Fashion: Critical and Primary Sources, Vol. 1: Late Medieval to Renaissance。Berg。
32.	Monnas, Lisa(2012)。Renaissance Velvet。Victoria & Albert Museum。
33.	Morena, Francesco(2005)。Delle Indie orientali alla corte di Toscana, Dalle Indie orientali alla corte di Toscana: collezioni di arte cinese e giapponese a Palazzo Pitti。Giunti。
34.	Museo del Tessuto(2006)。Intrecci mediterranei il tessuto come dizionario di rapporti economici, culturali e sociali。Mueso del Tessuto Edizioni。
35.	Museo degli Argenti(1997)。Magnificenza alla corte dei medici. arte a firenze alla fine del Cinquecento。Electa。
36.	Muzzarelli, Maria Giuseppina(2014)。Breve Storia della moda in Italia。Il Mulino。
37.	Orsi Landini, Roberta、Niccoli, Bruna(2005)。Moda a Firenze 1540-1580: lo stile di Eleonora di Toledo e la sua influenza。Pagliai Polistampa。
38.	Ribeiro, Aileen、Cumming, Valerie(1989)。The Visual History of Costume。Batsford。
39.	Riello, Giorgio(2013)。Cotton: The Fabric that Made the Modern World。Cambridge University Press。
40.	Schwoebel, Robert(1967)。The Shadow of the Crescent: The Renaissance Image of the Turk, 1453-1517。B. De Graaf。
41.	Scalini, Mario、Damiani, Giovanna(2003)。From the Medicis to the Savoias: Ottoman splendour in Florentine collections。Sabanci University, Sakip Sabanci Müzesi。
42.	S̄roňková, Olga(1959)。Fashion through the Centuries: Renaissance, Baroque and Rococo。Spring Books。
43.	Victoria and Albert Museum、Stanley, Tim、Rosser-Owen, Mariam、Vernoit, Stephen、National Gallery of Art、Kimbell Art Museum、Setagaya Bijutsukan、Millennium Gallery(2004)。Palace and Mosque: Islamic Art from the Middle East。V&A Publications。
44.	Walker, John A.(1990)。Design History and History of Design。Pluto Press。
45.	Trauth, Nina(2009)。Maske und Person:Orientalismus im Porträt des Barock。Deutscher Kunstverlag。
46.	Vaccari, Maria Grazia(1997)。La Guardaroba medicea dell'Archivio di Stato di Firenze。Regione toscana, Giunta regionale。
47.	Welters, Linda、Lillethun, Abby(2018)。Fashion History: A Global View。Bloomsbury。
48.	Williams, Haydn(2014)。Turquerie: An Eighteenth-century European Fantasy。Thames & Hudson。
49.	Wolff, Larry(2016)。The Singing Turk: Ottoman Power and Operatic Emotions on the European Stage from the Siege of Vienna to the Age of Napoleon。Stanford University Press。
50.	Riello, Giorgio、Parthasarathi, Prasannan(2009)。The Spinning World: A Global History of Cotton Textiles, 1200-1850。Oxford University Press。

其他
1.	Vinciolo, Federico(1588)。Ovurages de point couppe, Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts，https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/358422。
2.	Dizionario-Biografico。INGHIRAMI, Iacopo，https://www.treccani.it/enciclopedia/iacopo-inghirami_(Dizionario-Biografico)。
3.	Ekhtiar, Maryam，Cohen, Julia。Tiraz: Inscribed Textiles from the Early Islamic Period，https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/tira/hd_tira.htm。
4.	La Famiglia Inghirami di Volterra-Personaggi。Iacopo Inghirami，https://web.archive.org/web/20111031172807/http://www.inghirami.it/Famiglia/Personaggi/Personaggi.htm。

圖書論文
1.	Bourne, Molly(2011)。The Turban'd Turk in Renaissance Mantua: Francesco II Gonzaga's Interest in Ottoman Fashion。Mantova e il Rinascimento italiano. Studi in onore di David S. Chambers。Sometti Editoriale。
2.	Contadini, Anna(2013)。Sharing a Taste? Material Culture and Intellectual Curiosity around the Mediterranean, from the Eleventh to the Sixteenth Century。The Renaissance and the Ottoman World。Ashgate。
3.	Faroqhi, Suraiya(2013)。Ottoman Textiles in European Markets。The Renaissance and the Ottoman World。Ashgate。
4.	Faroqhi, Suraiya(2015)。Cultural Exchanges between the Ottoman World and Latinate Europe。The Sultan's World: The Ottoman Orient in Renaissance Art。Hatje Cantz。
5.	Karababa, Emingül(2018)。Enthicity。A Cultural history of Dress and Fashion in the Renaissance。Bloomsbury。
6.	Lemire, Beverly(2003)。Fashioning Cottons: Asian Trade, Domestic Industry and Consumer Demand, 1600-1780。The Cambridge History of Western Textiles。Cambridge University Press。
7.	Monnas, Lisa(2018)。A Study in Contrasts: Silk Consumption in Italy and England during the Fifteenth and Sixteenth Centuries。Threads of Global Desire: Silk in the Pre-modern World。The Boydell Press。
8.	Murphy, Caroline(2009)。Il Turchi。Murder of a Medici Princess。Oxford University Press。
9.	Museum With No Frontiers(2007)。Reflections of Paradise: Floral Decoration in Islamic Art。Discover Islamic Art in the Mediterranean。Museum With No Frontiers。
10.	Orsi Landini, Roberta(2006)。Tessuti turchi nella guardaroba medicea。Intrecci mediterranei: il tessuto come dizionario di rapporti economici, culturali e sociali。Museo del Tessuto。
11.	Orsi Landini, Roberta、Ricci, Stefania(1995)。Il Guardaroba di un sovrano: Cosimo II de Medici Metodologia di Studio。Le trame della moda。Bulzoni。
12.	Pastore, Christopher(2011)。Bipolar Behaviour: Ferdinando I de' Medici and the East。The Turk and Islam in the Western Eye, 1450-1750: Visual Imagery before Orientalism。Ashgate。
13.	Philips, Amanda(2018)。The Localisation of the Global: Ottoman Silk Textile and Markets, 1500-1700。Threads of Global Desire: Silk in the Pre-Modern World。Boydell & Brewer。
14.	Reimann, Caren(2021)。Ferdinando de' Medici and the Typographia Medicea。Print and Power in Early Modern Europe (1500-1800)。Brill。
15.	Roger, J. M.(1999)。Ornament Prints, Patterns and Designs East and West。Islam and the Italian Renaissance。Warburg Institute。

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1.	音樂舞臺的異國主義--以17與18世紀的「土耳其風」為例
2.	十六、十七世紀英格蘭的服飾論述與國族認同
3.	薩克森宮廷漆匠--馬丁．舒尼爾[Martin Schnell]與其東亞的根源

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