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題名:西洋婦女服飾革新之探討(1850-1914)
書刊名:紡織綜合研究期刊
作者:鄭智惠
作者(外文):Cheng, C. H.
出版日期:2005
卷期:15:1
頁次:頁14-20
主題關鍵詞:唯美服飾布洛馬服飾整腰束腹裙撐架理性服飾Artistic dressBloomerCorsetCrinolineRational dress
原始連結:連回原系統網址new window
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  • 被引用次數被引用次數:期刊(0) 博士論文(0) 專書(0) 專書論文(0)
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  • 共同引用共同引用:16
  • 點閱點閱:4
對19世紀中期西洋婦女而言,服裝是社會地位的重要象徵,當時社會上較具地位的女仕,會根據時間、活動、場合、年齡、社會階層的不用,而選擇各種不同的服飾,因為適得其所的打扮,對女性而言是一種必要的社交禮儀,為了塑造當時細腰豐臀女性化流行體態,女性們都穿上了總重達10至30磅的整腰束腹、裙撐架以及層疊而穿的襯裙,這樣的服飾不僅造成女性活動上的不方便,更對健康造成永久性的傷害,因此,當時社會上的女性運動者、醫生、女性作家、藝術家和服裝設計師都不約而同地開始提出服飾改革的必要性。本研究的主要目的是深入探討西方女性如何從束縛官方婦女近4世紀的整腰束腹中得到解放,顛覆當時傳統的社會審美價值觀,並開啟了20世紀現代服裝造型的雛型。
For those women in the western society in the middle of 19th century, women's dresses represented their social status. A fashionable lady in that period would change her outfits five to six times according to the occasions she attended because dressing properly was considered an etiquette in that society. In order to achieve the fashionable figure, women wore underwear such as corset and crinoline, which weighted 10 to 30 pounds. The fashionable dress caused a public discussion about the relationship between esthetics and comfort in fashion because it not only limited women's movement but also injured to women's health. A group of talented artists, writers, feminists, physicians, and designers attempt to relieve women from the conventional style and therefore they promoted reformed styles for women. The purpose of this study is to explore how women relieve themselves from corsets, which constrained their bodies for almost four hundred years. The dress reforming movement not only overthrows the traditional esthetics standard but also establishes the modern prototype for the twentieth century fashion.
期刊論文
1.Koda, Y.(2002)。The Fashion of Tailored Suit for Woman Focusing on the end of 19th Century in England。Journal of International Association of Costume,22,33-39。  new window
圖書
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2.Horn, M. J.、Gurel, L. M.(1981)。The second skin。Houghton Mifflin。  new window
3.Setnik, Linda(2000)。Victorian Costume for Ladies, 1860-1900。Atglen:Schiffer。  new window
4.Milbank, Caroline Rennolds(1989)。New York Fashion: The Evolution of American Style。New York:Harry N. Abrams。  new window
5.葉立誠(2000)。服飾美學。台北:商鼎文化出版社。  延伸查詢new window
6.Kaiser, Susan B.、李宏偉(1997)。服裝社會心理學。台北:商鼎文化。  延伸查詢new window
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8.Eubank, T.(1994)。Survey of Historic Costume。Fairchild Publications。  new window
9.Byrde, P.(1992)。Nineteen Century Fashion。B.T. Batsford Ltd。  new window
10.Delius, P.(2000)。A History of Fashion in the 20th Century。Konemann Publications。  new window
11.Yarwood, D.(1992)。Fashion in the Western World。B.T. Batsford Ltd。  new window
12.Evans, M.、Hisain, H.(1999)。Key Moments in Fashion。Octopus Publishing Group Limited。  new window
13.Laver, J.(1988)。Costume & Fashion。Thames and Hudson Ltd。  new window
14.DeOsma, G.(1994)。Fortuny: The Life and Work of Mariano Fortuny。Rizzoli International Publications, Inc。  new window
15.Deslandres, Y.(1987)。Poiret。Thames and Hudson Ltd。  new window
16.Tobin, S.(2000)。Inside Out, A Brief History of Underwear。The National Trust。  new window
17.Ewing, E.(1997)。History of the 20th Century Fashion。B.T. Batsford ltd。  new window
18.Milbank, C. R.(1985)。Couture, The Great Designers。Stewart, Tabori & Chang, Ins. Publishers。  new window
 
 
 
 
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