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題名:社會變遷中的飲食與養生--以廣式老火湯為例
書刊名:民俗研究
作者:姚麗梅
出版日期:2019
卷期:2019(1)
頁次:144-155+159
主題關鍵詞:飲食養生廣式老火湯DietHealth cultivationCantonese lo foh tong
原始連結:連回原系統網址new window
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從日常養生食品廣式"老火湯"的變遷歷史來看,清末至民國現代工商階層的崛起引導了新的飲食需求,使"煲湯"成為新的飲食風尚,此為"老火湯"的孕育期;改革開放以來,經過藥膳、商貿、餐飲、圖書出版、旅游等多種產業發展的驅動,"煲湯"被有意打造成廣東傳統養生食品"老火湯",并在適應日常生活的過程中進一步內化成為本土飲食記憶的一部分;進入21世紀,在現代醫學、營養學的影響下,人們開始改良"老火湯"的烹飪方式,但煲"老火湯"的飲食習慣卻依舊傳承。由此可見,人們在飲食與養生的選擇中,所依據的并不僅僅是現代醫學體系下的健康與營養標準,食物的口味、經濟利益及文化意涵均有重要的參考價值。這對思考當下由傳統飲食習慣與現代營養建議之間的沖突而引發的飲食問題具有啟發意義。
Seen from the changing history of daily health cultivation food Cantonese Lo Foh Tong,from the late Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China,the rising modern industrial and commercial class brought about new food requirement and made"boil soup"to be new food fashion.This is the gestation period of"Lo Foh Tong".Since the reform and opening up period,promoted by herbal cuisine,commerce,catering,book publication and tourism and so on,"boil soup"has been intentionally created as Cantonese traditional health cultivation food"Lo Foh Tong",and internalized as a part of local food memory in the process ofadapting to daily life.In the 21 st century,influenced by modern medicine and nutrition theory,people begin to improve the cooking method of"Lo Foh Tong",while the habit of making"Lo Foh Tong"is inherited.Therefore,in people’s choice of food and health cultivation,they not only base their diet on health and nutrition standards under modern medical system,but also refer to the taste of food,economic benefits and cultural implications,which is instructive for thinking about the current dietary problems caused by the conflict between traditional eating habits and modern nutritional advice.
 
 
 
 
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