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題名:日常飲食、節日聚餐與祭祖供品:印尼峇里島華人的家鄉、跨文化飲食與認同
書刊名:中國飲食文化
作者:羅素玫 引用關係
作者(外文):Lo, Su-mei
出版日期:2012
卷期:8:2
頁次:頁1-42
主題關鍵詞:飲食跨文化元素祖先祭祀認同印尼峇里島華人FoodTranscultural elementsAncestral worshipIdentityChinese BalineseIndonesia
原始連結:連回原系統網址new window
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  • 被引用次數被引用次數:期刊(5) 博士論文(0) 專書(0) 專書論文(1)
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文嘗試探討印尼峇里島華人移民社會的特性與特色,如何具體再現在食物的現象之上。島上的華人各來自不同原鄉和方言群,如福建、廣東、海南與客家,以及近年自臺灣而來的商業與婚姻移民。華人在峇里島的日常飲食融合了大量跨文化食材與香料來烹調家中的日常飲食與重要的節日食物,我們將之與傳統中國節日的祖先祭祀供品呈現上作一比較,並嘗試分析此一飲食現象的意義。祭祖的供品與節日中分享共餐的食物,由於既具有傳統供品之內容,還會加入與祖源相關的菜餚,因此在與日常飲食相互比較後,呈現出一種食物歷史與家族背景及文化認同之間,相互銜接的豐富意義。2010年,陳志明在有關泉州印尼峇里島華人歸僑移民社群飲食的探討中,提到移民與食物之間的關係裡,具有一種「家鄉」的想像在其中,在此同時,移民後的文化會重新扎根,並在新的環境背景下,再銘刻於新的時間與空間脈絡之中。在峇里島華人社會中,是否也存在這樣的移民文化的再銘刻過程?在此,峇里島當地特殊的時空背景,包括有印尼國族意識與文化的同化力量,以及1960年中期之後華校關閉與華人接受國家教育中的教化融合,同鄉社團與其他華人組織被禁,因此,家庭成為華人味覺與認同最直接且唯一的場域。然而,經歷30年的禁制之後,在1998年開放政策下,這一場域是否仍然存在著「家鄉」與「認同」的意義?
In this article, I give a preliminary picture of Chinese culinary presentation in Bali. There are several different dialect groups among Balinese Chinese, including Minnan, Cantonese, Hakka and Hainanese, plus recent migrants from Taiwan who have come on business or because of inter-marriage. There seems to be some important indexal foods served as offerings during ancestral worship and the communal feasts in Chinese traditional festivals such as the Chinese New Year (Imlek), the fifteen day of the first month (Cap Go Meh), the Dragon Boat Festival (Bazang), and so on. In Balinese Chinese families I have visited, offerings are still a strong mechanism for the continuity of family identity and memories of their ancestral origins. But there are also elements assimilated from the local culture in the ritual representation for the ancestors. How can we understand this co-existence of trans-cultural elements? I present here a complex story through ethnographic data on the family migration history, local adaptation, inter-marriage, and the practice of the ancestral cult. Finally, I compare the role of the idea of homeland and the notion of identity.
期刊論文
1.陳志明、丁毓玲(2010)。泉州城郊「巴厘華人村」:華僑農場歸僑重建的家園。華人研究國際學報,2(1),2-19。  延伸查詢new window
2.簡美玲(20071200)。歷史民族誌的書寫與Pulai女人的研究:馬來西亞華人客家認同經驗的探索。客家研究,2(2),151-158。  延伸查詢new window
3.Gottowik, Volker(2010)。Transnational, Translocal, Transcultural: Some Remarks on the Relations between Hindu-Balinese and Ethnic Chinese in Bali。SOJOURN: Journal of Social Issues in Southeast Asia,25(2),178-212。  new window
4.Holtzman, Jon D.(2006)。Food and Memory。Annual Review of Anthropology,35(1),361-378。  new window
5.Salmon, Claudine、Sidharta, Myra(2000)。The Hainanese of Bali, A Little Known Community。Archipel,60(4),87-124。  new window
6.Salmon, Claudine、Sidharta, Myra(2000)。From Skipper to Deified Ancestor: The Worship of Kongco in East Java and Bali (18th-20th Centuries)。Asian Culture,24,1-25。  new window
7.Tan, Chee-beng.(2010)。Reterritorization of a Balinese Chinese Community in Quanzhou, Fujian。Electronical version, print version to appear,44(3),547-566。  new window
會議論文
1.王潤華(2003)。飯碗中的雷聲:後殖民/離散/南洋河婆客家擂茶。客家飲食文學與文化國際學術研討會。臺北:二魚文化。10-25。  延伸查詢new window
2.Sidharta, Myra(2005)。Old Recipes, New meals, the Localization of Chinese Food in Indonesia。第九屆中華飲食文化學術研討會。臺北:財團法人中華飲食文化基金會。  延伸查詢new window
3.Winarno, Bondan(2007)。Cross-cultural Interaction and Chinese Food in Bali。第十屆中華飲食文化學術研討會。臺北:財團法人中華飲食文化基金會。  延伸查詢new window
圖書
1.王潤華(2003)。綠色的誘惑--勾引原始吃慾的斑蘭葉。榴槤滋味。臺北:二魚文化。  延伸查詢new window
2.林開忠(2010)。日常生活中的客家家庭:砂拉越石山與沙巴丹南客家家庭與日常生活。東南亞客家的變貌:新加坡與馬來西亞。臺北:中央研究院人文社會科學研究中心亞太專題中心。  延伸查詢new window
3.菲立普.費南德茲.阿梅斯托、韓良憶(2005)。食物的歷史:透視人類的飲食與文明。臺北:左岸文化。  延伸查詢new window
4.蕭新煌、林開忠(2009)。家庭、食物與客家認同:以馬來西亞客家後生人為例。飲食傳播與文化交流。臺北:財團法人中華飲食文化基金會。  延伸查詢new window
5.Coppel, Charles A.(2002)。Studying Ethnic Chinese in Indonesia。Singapore Society of Asian Studies。  new window
6.Goody, Jack(1998)。Food and Love: A Cultural History of East and West。Verso。  new window
7.Hoon, Chang-yau(2008)。Chinese Identity in Post-Suharto Indonesia: Culture, Politics and Media。Sussex Academic Press。  new window
8.Sidhart, Myra.(2004)。The Hainanese in Bali: A Long Process of Integration。Chinese Indonesians: State Policy, Monoculture, and Multiculture。Singapore:Eastern Universities Press。  new window
9.Wu, David Y. H.、Cheung, Sidney C. H.(2002)。The Globalization of Chinese Food。University of Hawaii Press。  new window
10.Wu, David Y. H.、Tan, Chee Beng(2001)。Changing Chinese Foodways in Asia。Hong Kong:The Chinese University Press。  new window
11.Carstens, Sharon A.(2005)。Histories, Cultures, Identities: Studies in Malaysian Chinese Worlds。National University of Singapore Press。  new window
12.Geertz, Clifford(1980)。Negara: The Theatre State in Nineteenth-century Bali。Princeton University Press。  new window
13.Barth, Fredrik(1993)。Balinese World。The University of Chicago Press。  new window
14.Chua, Beng-Huat、Rajah, Ananda(2001)。Hybridity, Ethnicity and Food in Singapore。Changing Chinese Foodways in Asia。Hong Kong:Chinese University Press。  new window
15.陳志明(2001)。Food and Ethnicity with Reference to the Chinese in Malaysia。Changing Chinese Foodways in Asia。Hong Kong:Chinese University Press。  new window
16.陳志明(2007)。Nyonya Cuisine: Chinese, non-Chinese and the Making of a Famous Cuisine in Southeast Asia。Food and Foodways in Asia: Resource, Tradition and Cooking。London/New York:Routledge。  new window
17.廖建裕(2007)。印尼原住民、華人與中國。新加坡青年書局。  延伸查詢new window
其他
1.吳燕和(2008)。新瓶裝新酒。  延伸查詢new window
2.中國評論新聞網(2009)。印尼首都:粽葉依然香 傳統歷史多淡忘,http://www.chinareviewnews.com/doc/1009/8/1/4/100981428.html?coluid=7&kindid=0&docid=100981428。  延伸查詢new window
圖書論文
1.吳燕和(2009)。臺灣的粵菜、香港的臺菜--飲食文化與族群性的比較研究。飲食傳播與文化交流。臺北:財團法人中華飲食文化基金會。  延伸查詢new window
2.廖建裕(2008)。印尼華人族群與國族認同--從史金納教授的研究說起。東南亞與華人族群研究。新加坡青年書局。  延伸查詢new window
3.Tan, Mely G.(2002)。Chinese Dietary Culture in Indonesian Urban Society。The Globalization of Chinese Food。Richmond, Surrey:Curzon。  new window
 
 
 
 
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