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題名:超越服飾改革的改革論述--紀爾曼的〈女性的服飾〉及其批判意涵
書刊名:歐美研究
作者:許慧琦
作者(外文):Hsu, Rachel Hui-chi
出版日期:2008
卷期:38:2
頁次:頁307-361
主題關鍵詞:女性服飾紀爾曼女性的服飾時尚服飾改革Women's dressCharlotte Perkins GilmanThe Dress of WomenFashionDress reform
原始連結:連回原系統網址new window
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  • 被引用次數被引用次數:期刊(1) 博士論文(0) 專書(0) 專書論文(0)
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  • 共同引用共同引用:35
  • 點閱點閱:230
本文從紀爾曼在她獨立創辦、經營與撰寫的《先驅者》月刊上連載的〈女性的服飾〉長文出發,討論她如何透過女性服飾的主題,闡述對近代美國的社會、經濟與性別的批判思想。本文指出,〈女〉文的宗旨並非只提出改革服飾的訴求,而是直指女性服飾背後的主要操縱力量,並要求根本改變。換言之,紀爾曼的終極關懷不只是女性服飾的改革,或女性身體的解放,而是女性整體社會活動的自主性與能動性。紀爾曼透過該文所闡發的批判論述,雖可能過於理想,卻也在某種程度上,將服飾改革帶往更深廣的論述層次,而發人深省。
This article explores the critical discourse of Charlotte Perkins Gilman (1860-1935), drawing on her essay, “The Dress of Women,” serialized in the periodical, The Forerunner: A Monthly Magazine (1909-1916), published and written exclusively by her. In “The Dress of Women,” Gilman elaborated on the subject of women’s dresses to put forth her critical analysis of social, economic and gender rela-tionship in modern American society. Despite the fact that “The Dress of Women” discussed and called for the reform of women’s dresses, this article argues that, its purpose went beyond the appeal of dress reform and to critique patriarchal manipulation of women in the society. In other words, Gilman’s ul-timate concern was not only the reform of women’s dresses or the liberation of women’s bodies, but also their subjectivity and agency in social activities. Gilman explicated the evolution of women’s fash-ionable dresses and the mainstream gender ideology in modern American society, as well as evaluated the appeals and achievements of what she called “dress reformers.” This article will show that Gil-man’s critical discourse might be too idealistic to put into practice, but what she proposed through her discourse on women’s dress, at least to a certain extent, had lifted the discourse on dress reform to a more comprehensive level, and thus motivate more reflection upon this subject.
期刊論文
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2.謝瑤玲(20010300)。吉爾曼之「女人國」與女性烏托邦的傳統。東吳外語學報,16,1-13。new window  延伸查詢new window
3.Simmel, G.(1904)。Fashion。The International Quarterly,10(1),130-155。  new window
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5.Zagarri, Rosemarie(1992)。Morals, Manners, and the Republican Mother。American Quarterly,44(2),192-215。  new window
6.Veblen, T.(1899)。The Barbarian Status of Women。The American Journal of Sociology,4(4),503-514。  new window
7.夏綠蒂.柏金斯.吉爾曼(1916)。A Summary of Purpose。The Forerunner,7(11),286-290。  延伸查詢new window
8.Gordon, Lynn D.(1987)。The Gibson Girl Goes to College: Popular Culture and Women's Higher Education in the Progressive Era, 1890-1920。American Quarterly,39(2),211-230。  new window
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14.Roberts, Helene E.(1977)。The Exquisite Slave: the Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman。Sign: Journal of Women in Culture and Society,2(3),554-569。  new window
15.夏綠蒂.柏金斯.吉爾曼(1923)。The New Generation of Women。Current History,18,731-737。  延伸查詢new window
16.林淑琴(2003)。打造她鄉-美國婦女運動先驅吉爾曼(Charlotte Perkins Gilman)及其烏托邦小說《她鄉》。當代,188,114-131。  延伸查詢new window
17.王受之(2001)。「女男孩」的年代- 一九二0至一九二九。藝術家,314,400-419。  延伸查詢new window
18.Riegel, R. E.(1963)。Women's Clothes and Women's Rights。American Quarterly,15(3),390-401。  new window
19.夏綠蒂.柏金斯.吉爾曼(1886)。Why Women Do Not Reform Their Dress。The Woman's Journal,17(43)。  new window
20.Fischer, G. V.(1997)。"Pantalets" and "Turkish Trousers": Designing Freedom in the Mid-nineteenth-century United States。Feminist Studies,23(1),111-140。  new window
21.Nelson, J. L.(2000)。Dress Reform and the Bloomer。Journal of American & Comparative Cultures,23(1),21-25。  new window
22.夏綠蒂.柏金斯.吉爾曼(1904)。The Clothing of Children。The Woman's Journal,35(48)。  延伸查詢new window
23.夏綠蒂.柏金斯.吉爾曼(1891)。The Dress and the Body。Pacific Rural Press,42(1)。  延伸查詢new window
24.夏綠蒂.柏金斯.吉爾曼(1915)。The Dress of Women。The Forerunner,6(1),20-24。  延伸查詢new window
25.夏綠蒂.柏金斯.吉爾曼(1915)。The Dress of Women。The Forerunner,6(10),273-278。  延伸查詢new window
26.夏綠蒂.柏金斯.吉爾曼(1915)。The Dress of Women。The Forerunner,6(11),302-307。  延伸查詢new window
27.夏綠蒂.柏金斯.吉爾曼(1915)。The Dress of Women。The Forerunner,6(12),328-334。  延伸查詢new window
28.夏綠蒂.柏金斯.吉爾曼(1915)。The Dress of Women。The Forerunner,6(2),46-51。  延伸查詢new window
29.夏綠蒂.柏金斯.吉爾曼(1915)。The Dress of Women。The Forerunner,6(3),75-81。  延伸查詢new window
30.夏綠蒂.柏金斯.吉爾曼(1915)。The Dress of Women。The Forerunner,6(4),102-108。  延伸查詢new window
31.夏綠蒂.柏金斯.吉爾曼(1915)。The Dress of Women。The Forerunner,6(5),132-138。  延伸查詢new window
32.夏綠蒂.柏金斯.吉爾曼(1915)。The Dress of Women。The Forerunner,6(6),159-165。  延伸查詢new window
33.夏綠蒂.柏金斯.吉爾曼(1915)。The Dress of Women。The Forerunner,6(7),189-194。  延伸查詢new window
34.夏綠蒂.柏金斯.吉爾曼(1915)。The Dress of Women。The Forerunner,6(8),215-220。  延伸查詢new window
35.夏綠蒂.柏金斯.吉爾曼(1915)。The Dress of Women。The Forerunner,6(9),245-250。  延伸查詢new window
36.Kerber, L. K.(1998)。Separate Spheres, Female Worlds, Woman's Place: The Rhetoric of Women's History。Journal of American History,75(1),9-39。  new window
37.Kelly, L. D.(1991)。Bipeds in Bloomers: How the Popular Press Killed the Dress Reform Movement。Studies in Popular Culture,8(2),67-76。  new window
38.Lauer, J. C.、Lauer, R. H.(1980)。The Battle of the Sexes: Fashion in 19th Century America。The Journal of Popular Culture,8(4),581-589。  new window
39.王受之(2001)。1920-1929「女男孩」的年代。藝術家,53(1)=314,400-419。  延伸查詢new window
40.林淑琴(2003)。打造她鄉─美國婦女運動先驅吉爾曼(Charlotte Perkins Gilman)及其烏托邦小說《她鄉》。當代,188,114-131。  延伸查詢new window
41.Fischer, Gayle V.(1997)。"Pantalets" and "Turkish Trowsers": Designing Freedom in the Mid-Nineteenth-Century United States。Feminist Studies,23(1),111-140。  new window
42.Gilman, Charlotte Perkins(1886)。Why Women Do Not Reform Their Dress。Woman's Journal,17(43),338。  new window
43.Gilman, Charlotte Perkins(1904)。Woman's Journal。Woman's Journal,35(48),338。  new window
44.Gilman, Charlotte Perkins(1915)。The dress of women。The Forerunner,6(1),20-24。  new window
45.Gilman, Charlotte Perkins(1915)。The dress of women。The Forerunner,6(2),46-51。  new window
46.Gilman, Charlotte Perkins(1915)。The dress of women。The Forerunner,6(3),75-81。  new window
47.Gilman, Charlotte Perkins(1915)。The dress of women。The Forerunner,6(4),102-108。  new window
48.Gilman, Charlotte Perkins(1915)。The dress of women。The Forerunner,6(5),132-138。  new window
49.Gilman, Charlotte Perkins(1915)。The dress of women。The Forerunner,6(6),159-165。  new window
50.Gilman, Charlotte Perkins(1915)。The dress of women。The Forerunner,6(7),189-194。  new window
51.Gilman, Charlotte Perkins(1915)。The dress of women。The Forerunner,6(8),215-220。  new window
52.Gilman, Charlotte Perkins(1915)。The dress of women。The Forerunner,6(9),245-250。  new window
53.Gilman, Charlotte Perkins(1915)。The dress of women。The Forerunner,6(10),273-278。  new window
54.Gilman, Charlotte Perkins(1915)。The dress of women。The Forerunner,6(11),302-307。  new window
55.Gilman, Charlotte Perkins(1915)。The dress of women。The Forerunner,6(12),328-334。  new window
56.Gilman, Charlotte Perkins(1923)。The new generation of women。Current History,18,731-737。  new window
57.Kelly, Lori Duin(1991)。Bipeds in Bloomers: How the Popular Press Killed the Dress Reform Movement。Studies in Popular Culture,13(2),67-76。  new window
58.Lauer, Jeanette C.、Lauer, R. H.(1980)。The battle of the sexes: Fashion in 19th century America。Journal of Popular Culture,13(4),581-589。  new window
59.Nelson, Jennifer Ladd(2000)。Dress Reform and the Bloomer。Journal of American & Comparative Cultures,23(1),21-25。  new window
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61.Roberts, H. E.(1977)。Signs。Signs,2(3),554-569。  new window
62.Simmel, George(1957)。Fashion。American Journal of Sociology,62(2),541-558。  new window
學位論文
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2.Kriebl, Karen J.(1998)。From bloomers to flappers: The American Women's Dress Reform Movement, 1840-1920,Columbus, OH。  new window
圖書
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62.Gilaman, Charlotte Perkins(1966)。Women and Economics: A Study of the Economic Relations Between Men and Women as a Factor in Social Evolution。Women and Economics: A Study of the Economic Relations Between Men and Women as a Factor in Social Evolution。New York。  new window
63.Hofstadter, Richard(1992)。Social Darwinism in American Thought。Social Darwinism in American Thought。Boston。  new window
64.Blair, Karen J.(1980)。The Clubwoman as Feminist: True Womanhood Redefined, 1868-1914。The Clubwoman as Feminist: True Womanhood Redefined, 1868-1914。New York。  new window
65.Gilman, Charlotte Perkins(1991)。The Living of Charlotte Perkins Gilman: An Antobiography。The Living of Charlotte Perkins Gilman: An Antobiography。Madison。  new window
66.Crane, Diana(2000)。Fashion and Its Social Agendas: Class, Gender, and Identity in Clothing。Fashion and Its Social Agendas: Class, Gender, and Identity in Clothing。Chicago/London。  new window
67.Veblen, Thorstein(1934)。The Theory of the Leisure Class: An Economic Study of Institutions。The Theory of the Leisure Class: An Economic Study of Institutions。New York。  new window
68.Steele, Valerie(2001)。The corset: A cultural history。The corset: A cultural history。New Haven, CT。  new window
69.Summers, Leigh(2001)。Bound to please: A history of the Victorian corset。Bound to please: A history of the Victorian corset。Oxford/New York。  new window
70.Hollander, Anne(2000)。性別與服飾:現代服裝的演變。性別與服飾:現代服裝的演變。北京。  延伸查詢new window
71.Gilman, Charlotte Perkins(1998)。她鄉。她鄉。臺北。  延伸查詢new window
72.Beck, Alma Soongi(1992)。Asian American women and flapper identity in the 1920's。Asian American women and flapper identity in the 1920's。New Haven, CT。  new window
73.Bloomer, D. C.(1976)。Life And Writings of Amelia Bloomer。Life And Writings of Amelia Bloomer。St. Clair Shores, MI。  new window
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其他
1.Gilman, Charlotte Perkins(1891)。The dress and the body。  new window
2.Gilman, Charlotte Perkins(1905)。Symbolism in dress,London。  new window
 
 
 
 
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