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題名：禍福從天降--南京小龍蝦的環境政治
書刊名：中國飲食文化
作者：張展鴻
作者(外文)：Cheung, Sidney C. H.
出版日期：2010
卷期：6:2
頁次：頁1-34
主題關鍵詞：克氏原螯蝦；盱眙小龍蝦；三農問題；農村經濟改革；Procambarus clarkia；Xuyi little lobster；The three farming policies；Rural economic reform
原始連結：連回原系統網址new window
相關次數：
  • 被引用次數被引用次數:期刊(2) 博士論文(0) 專書(0) 專書論文(0)
  • 排除自我引用排除自我引用:2
  • 共同引用共同引用:1
  • 點閱點閱:23
對於近年流行於中國大陸的食物－南京小龍蝦，存在著多種不同的看法和理解。有人說這些生長在淡水河流一帶的小龍蝦是蓮花以外「出淤泥而不染」的君子，但也有人認爲小龍蝦曾經是日本人爲破壞江蘇一帶的水稻而遠道帶來的小特工，甚至是日本侵略者在南京發動細菌戰時用來清理屍體的天然清道夫。大家一方面知道小龍蝦是生命力強得足以在骯髒的排水溝傳宗接代，另一方面大家近年對它另眼相看，配以多種香料加上煮熟後其紅彤彤的外貌，很多人視之爲美食佳餚。尤有甚者，在距離南京不遠的地方－盱眙，地方政府不但興建龍蝦博物館，甚至每年舉辦大型（國際）龍蝦節，希望藉此打造一個全國性的地區品牌，爲盱眙龍蝦提高知名度從而推動農村經濟和生態旅遊的發展。而當地老百姓更相信跟小龍蝦有關的經濟活動，可以爲他們帶來美好的明天。但究竟小龍蝦爲盱眙老百姓帶的是禍還是福呢？而盱眙的農村經濟是否得以藉此開花結果爲當地人民作出一種可持續發展的產業？本文是以人類學的田野考察法，深入盱眙訪問小龍蝦的生産者和銷售者，從而了解大陸這項已發展約十年的新農產品和地方社會的關係。另外，藉著盱眙的社經變化和農業改革這一案例，應可以一窺經濟改革開放過程中的中國社會，其所出現的城鄉互動變化契機何在？從而對小龍蝦這一新口味的出現，或可得到一個反思的機會。
Recently, mainland Chinese have come to have different ideas about a fashionable food-Nanjing Little Lobster. Some people think the main ingredient of this spicy dish lives in muddy places but has a good seafood taste; while some people remember it as an invasive species brought in by the Japanese in the 1940s and employed as a crop-destroying "special agent" and also to clean up corpses after theJapanese unleashed germ warfare on the population. On the one hand, people know it can survive in drainage ditches even if the environment is polluted; on the other hand, people cook it with spices and make it a delicacy. In Xuyi in the Jiangsu area, there are a "lobster" museum and a festival for the development of the local economy and ecotourism. Local people expect a better future with the agricultural production and promotion of the brand "Xuyi Little Lobster," but this article questions whether this is a move in the right direction for China's rural economic reforms. Making use of participant observation and interviews in order to examine individual and community responses toward production, promotion and consumption of crayfish, the article discusses how the introduction and cultivation of a new non-local food species has contributed tochanges in farming methods, trading networks and local government policy in agricultural changes. With the ethnographical approach focusing on the changing mode of production, I seek to understand the effects of crayfish farming on Chinese farmers' lifestyles and future expectations, and to rethink the meaning of this development in the context of rural economic reform in today's China.
期刊論文
1.Phillips, Lynne(2006)。Food and Globalization。The Annual Review of Anthropology，35，37-57。  new window
2.Foster, Robert J.(1991)。Making National Cultures in the Global Ecumene。Annual Review of Anthropology，20，235-260。  new window
3.Akamine, Jun(20050000)。International Intervention is Not the Only Way to Save Depleting Resources。中國飲食文化，1(2)，1-30。new window  new window
4.Ruddle, Kenneth.(1987)。Administration and Conflict Management in Japanese Coastal Fisheries。FAO Fisheries Technical Paper，273。  new window
5.Messer, Ellen.(1984)。Anthropological Perspectives on Diet。Annual Review of Anthropology，13，205-249。  new window
6.Nisikawa, Usio, Motohara Konishi、Shigeru Nakano.(2001)。Species Displacement Between an Introduced and a‘Vulnerable’Crayfish: The Role of Aggressive Interactions and Shelter Competition.。Biological Invasions，3，179-185。  new window
7.Thies, Cameron G.、Schuyler Porche.(2007)。Crawfish Tails: A Curious Tale of Foreign Trade Policy Making.。Foreign Policy Analysis，3，171-187。  new window
8.Wang, Wen etc.(2005)。A Novel Spiroplasma Pathogen Causing Systemic Infection in the Crayfish Procambarus Clarkii (Crustacea: Decapod), in China.。FEMS Microbiology Letters，249，131-137。  new window
9.Brandtstadter, Susanne.(2004)。Money Plucked from the Sky: Shrimp Farming, Entrepreneurship and the Circulation of Know-How in a Fujian Village.。Taiwan Journal of Anthropology，2(1)，41-67。  new window
10.Chen, Xiaoxuan、Brett F. Edgerton.(2001)。Freshwater Crayfish Culture in China。Aquaculture Magazine，41-44。  new window
11.Holtzman, Jon D.(2006)。Food and Memory.。Annual Review of Anthropology，35，361-378。  new window
12.Huner,Jay V.(1992)。Chinese Crawfish and the Louisiana Crawfish Industry.。Aquaculture Magazine March-April，6-13。  new window
13.Jamieson, Mark.(2002)。Ownership of Sea-Shrimp Production and Perceptions of Economic Opportunity m a Nicaraguan Miskitu Village。Ethnology，41(3)，281-298。  new window
學位論文
1.Da Silva, A. M.(1977)。Native Managementof Coastal Wetlands in Hong Kong: A Case Study of Wetland Change at Tin Shui Wai Agricultural Lot, New Territories。University of Hawaii，Hawaii。  new window
圖書
1.Levi-Strauss, Claude(1969)。The Raw and the Cooked。New York：Harper & Row。  new window
2.Freidburg, Susanne(2004)。French Beans and Food Scares: Culture and Commerce in An Anxious Age。Oxford University Press。  new window
3.Mintz, Sidney Wilfred(1985)。Sweetness and Power: The Place of Sugar in Modern History。New York：Penguin Books。  new window
4.Douglas, Mary(1996)。Purity and Danger: An Analysis of the Concepts of Pollution and Taboo。London。  new window
5.Sahlins, Marshall David(1976)。Culture and Practical Reason。Chicago, Illinois：University of Chicago Press。  new window
6.Geertz, Clifford(1963)。Agricultural involution: the process of ecological change in Indonesia。Berkeley：University of California Press。  new window
7.Goody, Jack(1982)。Cooking, Cuisine, and Class: A Study in Comparative Sociology。Cambridge University Press。  new window
8.夏愛軍(2007)。小龍蝦養殖技術。北京。  延伸查詢new window
9.張展鴻(2009)。漁翁移山－－香港本土漁業民俗誌。香港。  延伸查詢new window
10.村井吉敬(1988)。えびと日本人。東京。  延伸查詢new window
11.村井吉敬(2007)。えびと日本人II。東京。  延伸查詢new window
12.Barndt, Deborah.(2002)。Tangled Routes: Woman, Work, and Globalization on the Tomato Trail。Boulder, CO。  new window
13.Jamieson, Mark.(2002)。Salt: A World History。New York。  new window
14.Kurlansky, Mark.(1999)。Cod: A Biography of the Fish that Changed the World。London。  new window
15.Pendergrast,Mark.(1993)。For God, Country and Coka-Cola: The Unauthorized History of the Great American Soft Drink and the Company That Make It。New York。  new window
16.Petrini, Carlo、McCuaig, William(2003)。Slow Food: The Case for Taste。New York。  new window
17.Roseberry,William(1995)。Coffee, Society, and Power in Latin America。Baltimore。  new window
18.Bestor, Theodore C.(2004)。Tsukiji: The Fish Market at the Center of the World。Berkeley, CA。  new window
19.Shephard, Sue.(2000)。Pickled, Potted and Canned: The Story of Food Preserving。London。  new window
20.Gately, Iain.(2003)。Tobacco: A Cultural History of How an Exotic Plant Seduced Civilization。New York。  new window
21.Harris, Marvin.(1986)。Good to Eat: Riddles of Food and Culture。London。  new window
22.Macfarlane, Alan、Iris Macfarlane.(2003)。Green Gold: The Empire of Tea。London。  new window
其他
1.湖北日報編輯部(2009)。工與農的精心對接。  延伸查詢new window
2.新聞晚報編輯部(2010)。上海海洋大學「水稻+水産」項目走出國門羅非魚入水稻田稻米增產魚兒肥。  延伸查詢new window
3.農村新報編輯部(2009)。我省助小龍蝦「跳」出重圍。  延伸查詢new window
4.經理日報編輯部(2009)。劉主權——「蝦稻連作」第一人在漢撒蝦網。  延伸查詢new window
5.武漢晨報編輯部(2009)。小龍蝦最後一蹦——價格狂漲。  延伸查詢new window
6.陳筑君(2009)。拚環保盱眙採購台灣包裝盒。  延伸查詢new window
7.湖北日報編輯部(2009)。把小龍蝦做成大產業。  延伸查詢new window
8.湖北日報編輯部(2009)。漆雕良仁——中國水產奇蹟製造者。  延伸查詢new window
 
 
 
 
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