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題名:戰地生活、軍人消費與飲食文化:以金門為例
書刊名:中國飲食文化
作者:江柏煒 引用關係
作者(外文):Chiang, Bo-wei
出版日期:2013
卷期:9:1
頁次:頁157-194
主題關鍵詞:飲食文化史冷戰遺產地域文化金門History of dietary cultureHeritage of cold warLocalityQuemoy
原始連結:連回原系統網址new window
相關次數:
  • 被引用次數被引用次數:期刊(8) 博士論文(0) 專書(0) 專書論文(1)
  • 排除自我引用排除自我引用:8
  • 共同引用共同引用:28
  • 點閱點閱:54
西元1949年以降,金門從閩南傳統社會變成國共對峙、世界冷戰的前線基地。在長達四十三年的軍事統治期間,除地方社會與空間地景被高度地軍事化外,亦因軍人消費經濟的蓬勃產生了與之相應的微型產業及文化,飲食即為其中之一。為了迎合不同籍貫的駐軍,金門在原有閩南料理的基礎上,發展出了廣東粥、牛肉大餐、麵食(刀削麵、炒泡麵、拌麵)、與金門高粱酒等戰地風味餐。西元1992年,金門解除戰地政務後,這些風味餐進一步發展成地方旅遊的新資源。本文擬以田野調查的史料,探究金門戰地生活、軍人消費與飲食文化間的關係。首先以實際的案例,討論大量的、長期的駐軍於金門所產生的庶民飲食之演變,以及這些料理在地化的過程。接著,分析金門高粱酒生產的歷史,並從戰地氛圍與男子氣概塑造(modeling manhood)的象徵意義,進一步理解高粱酒是如何受到軍隊的歡迎,以及國家(軍事政權)對於戰地社會飲酒的矛盾情結。最後,進一步分析飲食這種非物質性的戰地遺產,如何成為一種新的地域特色與旅遊產業。
From 1949, Quemoy (also called Jinmen or Kinmen) became the battlefront between the warring Nationalists (Kuomintang) and Communists, as well as one of the front lines between Cold War nations. On Quemoy under military rule, social and ideological control suppressed the community power of traditional lineages. But, because many soldiers lived on the island, the economic power of soldiers' consumption practices brought into being many small industries. One of the most famous industries was the local restaurant business. They combined the local cuisine with that of other provinces of mainland China, some of them native places of army soldiers, and then developed some characteristic dishes or beverage, like Cantonese porridge, beef cuisine, many kind of noodles, kaoliang liquor (sorghum liquor) etc. After 1992, this mixed cuisine became a resource for new tourist developments in local society. This paper will survey historical documents and oral materials, and analyze the relationship between battlefield life, soldiers' consumption, and dietary culture on Quemoy. First, I will discuss transformation of the local diet and other localization processes during the military period. Secondly, I will deal with a history of the liquor brewery on Quemoy. Liquor in turn was connected with the symbolic meaning of battlefield bravado and manhood, and kaoliang liquor became a favourite beverage of the army. For the military authorities, the question was how to manage drinking in order to avoid the disorder brought on by excessive drinking. Finally, I point out that the dietary culture of the battlefield became a new type of non-physical heritage in the post-war period, and consider some ways to develop new types of local and tourist industries.
期刊論文
1.江柏煒(20111200)。「混雜的現代性」:近代金門地方社會的文化想像及其實踐。民俗曲藝,174,185-257。new window  延伸查詢new window
2.江柏煒(20070600)。誰的戰爭歷史?:金門戰史館的國族歷史vs.民間社會的集體記憶。民俗曲藝,156,85-155。new window  延伸查詢new window
3.王明珂(19931100)。集體歷史記憶與族群認同。當代,91,6-19。  延伸查詢new window
研究報告
1.豐禾形象策略有限公司(2006)。2005年金門縣觀光餐飲業服務品質提升輔導計畫。  延伸查詢new window
學位論文
1.王美媛(2007)。金門傳統飲食文化之研究(碩士論文)。銘傳大學,臺北。  延伸查詢new window
2.楊廷標(2004)。金門縣高粱保價政策政治經濟分析1952-2002(碩士論文)。銘傳大學,臺北。  延伸查詢new window
圖書
1.Middleton, David、Edwards, Derek(1990)。Collective Remembering。London:Sage Publications。  new window
2.(1979)。金門古寧頭、舟山登步島之戰史料初輯。臺北:國史館。  延伸查詢new window
3.陽思謙(1987)。泉州府志。臺北:臺灣學生書局。  延伸查詢new window
4.李仕德(2010)。金門縣志。金門:金門縣政府。  延伸查詢new window
5.金門縣政府(1993)。黃金四十年。金門:金門日報社。  延伸查詢new window
6.金門縣政府(2008)。金門縣統計年報。金門:金門縣政府。  延伸查詢new window
7.金門縣政府交通旅遊局(2009)。金門縣觀光發展期程及實施成果報告。金門:金門縣政府。  延伸查詢new window
8.林焜璜(1960)。金門志。金門:金門縣文獻委員會。  延伸查詢new window
9.戚常卉、林美吟(2009)。古城與老酒廠:金門高粱酒傳奇。金門:金門縣文化局。  延伸查詢new window
10.Shepard, Alexandr(2003)。Meanings of Manhood in Early Modern England, Studies in Social History。Oxford:Oxford University Press。  new window
11.李怡來(1971)。金門華僑志。金門:金門縣文獻委員會。  延伸查詢new window
12.金門戰地政務委員會(1976)。自衛戰鬥手冊。金門縣:金門戰地政務委員會。  延伸查詢new window
13.葉立誠(2000)。服飾美學。臺北:商鼎文化出版公司。  延伸查詢new window
14.懷蔭布(2000)。(乾隆)泉州府志。上海:上海書店。  延伸查詢new window
15.許如中(1959)。新金門志。金門:金門縣政府。  延伸查詢new window
16.金門縣政府(1992)。金門縣志。金門:金門縣政府。  延伸查詢new window
17.胡璉(1976)。金門憶舊。臺北:黎明文化事業公司。  延伸查詢new window
其他
1.許紹軒(20090603)。金門駐軍,最多時高達十七萬。  延伸查詢new window
2.陳東龍(20021018)。陸軍金門駐軍闖禍,酒醉開砲險釀巨災。  延伸查詢new window
 
 
 
 
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