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題名:土地與記憶的飲食圖譜--九二一震災後臺中市大坑農園轉型休閒餐廳的觀察
書刊名:中國飲食文化
作者:陳素貞 引用關係
作者(外文):Chen, Su-chen
出版日期:2009
卷期:5:2
頁次:頁129-157
主題關鍵詞:大坑休閒餐廳飲食圖譜記憶懷舊招牌菜Da-KungDietary cultureMemoryLeisure restaurantMenu of specialty food
原始連結:連回原系統網址new window
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  • 被引用次數被引用次數:期刊(2) 博士論文(0) 專書(0) 專書論文(0)
  • 排除自我引用排除自我引用:0
  • 共同引用共同引用:47
  • 點閱點閱:37
有「臺中後花園」之稱的大坑,在民國七○年代土雞城興起時,曾帶來一波榮景,然而九二一震災後,大坑陷入蕭條;當地農園於九二年後,逐漸轉型成庭園式的休閒農場,成爲大坑地區新興的休閒景觀。由於休閒農場的穫利主要還是仰賴餐飲,因此除了以自然景觀營造優美的飲食情境外,如何開發餐飲的特色,便成爲業者轉型的迫切問題。爲了了解大坑本地農園轉型休閒餐飲的特色與發展,本文選定了「新月傳說」、「荔園」、「青青農園」三家為訪察對象,一則此三家皆是民國九○年代初,二代(兼含三代)子弟返鄉經營的家族式庭園餐廳;二則他們在自然景觀與餐飲食單的規劃上,有獨特理念而能成功地突顯其經營特質;三則此理念與經營特質,乃根於他們所擁有的家族土地資源與生活經驗,由是,融合土地與家族記憶,便成爲他們共同的經營理念與方式。本文嚐試透過此三家休閒餐廳的轉型及其招牌食單,探究他們如何藉由土地與生活的記憶承傳,建構其飲食圖譜,並進而思考此類寓含地方與家族色彩的餐飲意象,成爲建構大坑飲食意象與新人文地景的可能性;同時此種圍繞土地、自然與家族記憶的飲食圖譜,如何與在地、有機的新健康飲食概念結合,成爲一種既能凸顯傳統,又能繫連現代生活,乃至抗衡全球化的地方餐飲特色。
Da-Kung, famous as a back-garden of Metropolitan Taichung City, was blooming in 1970s while the chicken diners were on the rise. It suffered a severe economic depression after the September 21 (921) earthquake of 1999. Inspired by the success of the Lavender Forest Restaurant and positively coached by the Agriculture Committee, many farms with weak productivity made the transition to garden-style leisure farms. This development was noted as something new in the Da-Kung area in the years after 1992. However, the profit from leisure garden restaurants was much less than the one in the Hsin-Se area, because tourists only just passed through Da-Kung, rather than staying for short periods. Thus the urgent transformational issue for Da-Kung business owners became one of how to create the right food characteristics in addition to the construction of an elegant dining atmosphere, that would entice people to stay. Three restaurants were chosen as interview and observation models to identify the developing characteristics of the food, along with the combination of land and clan memory as a common business operation idea during this transition period. Through examining the events of the transition and menus of specialty foods, the author explores how local entrepreneurs created their own clan and local dietary imagination, as well as how they went about linking the new dietary culture with historical and cultural landmarks in the Da-Kung area. The article also shows how characteristics resulting from novel and healthy concepts grounded on the land, clan memory, and localized organic production, becomes a linkage with modern life and source of resistance against globalization pressures.
期刊論文
1.梁炳琨(20080900)。由後生產主義的觀點來審視臺灣農業體制的轉型--以大坑地區休閒農園為例。戶外遊憩研究,21(3),49-80。new window  延伸查詢new window
2.梁炳琨、張長義(20040300)。地理學的文化經濟與地方再現。地理學報,35,81-99。new window  延伸查詢new window
3.梁炳琨(2007)。鄕村地理學:後生產主義轉型、在地農業食物與自然--社會關係觀點的探討。中國地理學會會刊,39,1-20。new window  延伸查詢new window
4.梁炳琨(2005)。臺中市大坑地區地方建構之硏究--九二一震災後的重建與觀光地景的再現。中國地理學會會刊,35,1-24。  延伸查詢new window
研究報告
1.王文瑞等(2008)。大坑文史探尋與北坑巷休閒步道規劃理念探討報告。  延伸查詢new window
2.蔡美輝、鄧雅文、陳錫民等(2008)。產業發展下臺中市大坑地區居民社區想像、空間識覺與發展期待。  延伸查詢new window
圖書
1.顧朝林、于濤方、李平(2008)。人文地理學流派。北京:高等教育出版社。  延伸查詢new window
2.Ackerman, Diane(2004)。氣味、記憶與愛欲。臺北。  延伸查詢new window
3.Ackerman, Diane、莊安祺(19930500)。感官之旅。臺北:時報文化。  延伸查詢new window
4.Highmore, Ben、周群英(2005)。分析日常生活與文化理論。臺北:韋伯文化國際出版有限公司。  延伸查詢new window
5.陳素貞(2007)。北宋文人的飲食書寫:以詩歌為例的考察。臺北:大安出版社。new window  延伸查詢new window
6.陳秉璋(1985)。社會學理論。台北市:三民。  延伸查詢new window
7.王斑(2004)。歷史與記憶:全球現代性的質疑。香港:牛津大學出版社。  延伸查詢new window
8.Crang, Mike、王志弘、余佳玲、方淑惠(2003)。文化地理學。巨流圖書股份有限公司。  延伸查詢new window
9.張光直、郭于華(2003)。中國文化中的飲食——人類學與歷史學的透視。中國食物。南京。  延伸查詢new window
10.臺中市大坑文化協會(2006)。深度大坑文化導覽手冊。  延伸查詢new window
11.蔡金鼎(2006)。戲說大坑三兩事。臺中。  延伸查詢new window
12.Mintz, Sidney W.、林爲正(2001)。吃:漫遊飲食行爲、文化與歷史的金三角地帶。臺北:藍鯨出版公司。  延伸查詢new window
13.Jane Goodall(1996)。用心飲食。臺北。  延伸查詢new window
 
 
 
 
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