十八世紀初期，清帝國的方誌書寫中，將「烏魚、土魠、虱目魚」採錄為三種臺灣本地特色海產。本文嘗試探討這三種海產，如何在臺灣多元的歷史脈絡下，於清帝國治理臺灣之初，發展為臺灣本地墾殖者所共認共享的本土特色海產。本文所稱的多元脈絡，包括（1）以烏魚漁業為例，說明荷蘭東印度公司至鄭氏東寧政權治臺時期，唐人經營之漁業，由「異地漁業」向「本地漁業」轉化的本土化過程；（2）以土魠為例，說明並考證荷語「國王魚」一詞涵蓋「土魠」在內，並說明透過同時期荷治下大員地區「殖民交會」的影響，唐人接納外語魚名及消費習慣的狀況；（3）以虱目魚為例，提出其命名及養殖技術的引進，可能與東寧政權和爪哇地區的往來有關。綜上，本文指出，荷人治臺，引進唐人移民，擴大了臺灣本地消費市場，是推進「本地漁業」發展的重要因素。而居住於熱蘭遮城市鎮中的唐人市民，因與荷蘭人共享漁產消費，也接納了外語魚名與煮食方式。東寧時期自爪哇引進半鹹水養殖技術，則為以上兩種脈絡之共同延續。即便臺灣在納入清帝國統治之後，原先多元的歷史脈絡被刻意忽視，但其痕跡，卻意外地透過特色海產的形塑過程，在清帝國的方誌書寫中，被保留下來。

In the second decade of 18th century, ＂Mullet (烏魚), Narrow-Barred Spanish Mackerel (土魠) and Milk-Fish (虱目魚)＂ were certified in a local gazetteer as sea-food specialties in Taiwan by the Qing literati. This article clarifies the multiple historical contexts in which each kind of fish developed into a specialty acclaimed by the Chinese settlers, who sometimes shared a common palate with the European colonizers. These multiple historical contexts are: 1) mullet fishery, which explains how Chinese migratory fishery developed into residential fishery under the changing policies of the Dutch colonization and the Zheng Regime that followed. 2) Narrow-Barred Spanish Mackerel reveals how the Chinese name of this mackerel, ＂to-to＂, was derived from ＂dorado＂ as a borrowed fish name situated to the European colonial encounter scene. 3) Milk-Fish suggests a hypothesis that the Zheng regime's activities on the coast of East Java could have introduced brackish water fish-farming to Taiwan thereby initiating Milk-Fish aquaculture. In sum, the Dutch policy of importing Chinese settlers greatly contributed to the expansion of local fish consumption and became the agent behind the transformation of migratory into residential fishery. The Chinese citizens who lived among the Dutch in Zeelandia town partook of similar fish dishes and even accepted the European names of fish and recipes that were passed down even after the Dutch left. The introduction of brackish water fish-farming from Java was resulted from both above contexts. Although those multiple contexts were ignored by the Chinese literati after Taiwan was incorporated by the Qing, their traces were unintentionally preserved in the local gazetteers for the generations to come.