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題名:乾隆朝內務府的皮貨買賣與京城時尚
書刊名:故宮學術季刊
作者:賴惠敏 引用關係
作者(外文):Lai, Hui-min
出版日期:2003
卷期:21:1
頁次:頁101-134+216
主題關鍵詞:恰克圖毛皮貿易時尚KiakhtaFur tradeFashion
原始連結:連回原系統網址new window
相關次數:
  • 被引用次數被引用次數:期刊(13) 博士論文(4) 專書(2) 專書論文(1)
  • 排除自我引用排除自我引用:8
  • 共同引用共同引用:517
  • 點閱點閱:149
十八世紀俄國不斷尋找新的毛皮產地,從西伯利亞到堪察加半島,進而向東進入阿留中群島和阿拉斯加半島,獵獲大量皮毛。中國北方冬天寒冷,需要大量的毛皮,因此成為俄國毛皮最重要的輸出地。 乾隆皇帝派人到恰克圖採購毛皮,內務府僅選取珍貴的毛皮留做皇室的服飾,其餘變價出售,其利潤約為10%。又,乾隆朝唐努烏梁海進貢的毛皮,其質量似乎比不上東北所產的毛皮,故多數變價。內務府變價的毛皮數量之多,有助於毛皮在京城之普及,以此展現十八世紀中國物質文明的進步。 毛皮服飾的傳播由宮廷傳至民間,乾隆皇帝對裁縫匠製作服飾過程表示意見。又,大量賞賜大臣、侍衛等毛皮服飾。內務府衣庫一年僱用裁縫匠超過一萬個工作天以上。裁縫匠成造服飾除了提供皇室之需,也推廣毛皮服飾至民間。
During the eighteenth century, Russia constantly sought new sources of fur. They obtained large quantities from Siberia and the Kamchatka Peninsula to as far east as the Aleutian Islands and Alaska. The cold winter weather in North China insured a ready market for fur, and China became the most important destination for Russian fur export. Upon the establishment of a trading relationship between China and Russia in the region of Kiakhta during the Ch’ien-lung reign, the dispatched missions to Kiakhta to buy fur. Imperial purchases made up nearly three percent of the total volume traded. The Imperial Household Department only chose the most valuable fur for the imperial dress and sold the rest at a profit of about ten percent. During the Ch’ien-lung reign, most of the fur obtained from T’ang-nu-wu-liang­hai (which was inferior to that of the northeast) was sold. The Imperial Household Department sold almost 600,000 silver taels worth of fur during this period, which stimulated the popularization of fur in the capital and contributed to the development of Chinese material cu1ture. Emperor Ch’ien-lung was very particular about what he wore, giving many opinions on the design, tailoring, production, and alteration of his clothing. Furs were also presented to ministers and guards as rewards. The Imperial Household Department employed tailors for over ten thousand man-days a year. The tailors not only made clothes for the Imperial family but also popularized the wearing of fur outside the court.
期刊論文
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2.巫仁恕(19990900)。明代平民服飾的流行風尚與士大夫的反應。新史學,10(3),55-109。new window  延伸查詢new window
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13.陳娟娟(1994)。清代服飾藝術。故宮博物院院刊,1994(2),28-40。  延伸查詢new window
14.吳相湘(1951)。清內務府檔案中的乾隆衣飾。大陸雜誌,3(9),14-16。  延伸查詢new window
會議論文
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7.Foust, Clifford M.(1969)。Muscovite and Mandarin: Russia's trade with China and its setting, 1725-1805。Chapel Hill。  new window
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12.中國第一歷史檔案館(1994)。乾隆朝懲辦貪汚檔案選編。北京:中華書局。  延伸查詢new window
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14.周錫保(198409)。中國古代服飾史。北京:中國戲劇出版社。new window  延伸查詢new window
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17.瞿同祖(1982)。中國法律與中國社會。里仁。new window  延伸查詢new window
18.徐珂(1984)。清稗類鈔。北京:中華書局。  延伸查詢new window
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21.北京市民族古籍整理出版規劃小組(2000)。滿族說唱文學:子弟書珍本百種。滿族說唱文學:子弟書珍本百種。北京。  延伸查詢new window
其他
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3.內務府廣儲司銀庫月摺檔。  延伸查詢new window
4.(清)福格(1982)。聽雨叢談,北京。  延伸查詢new window
5.內務府銀庫月摺檔,北京。  延伸查詢new window
6.大清會典事例,臺北。  延伸查詢new window
7.(1981)。大清會典圖,臺北。  延伸查詢new window
8.昆岡(1981)。大清會典事例,臺北。  延伸查詢new window
9.(1987)。宮中硃批奏摺財政類─財政類.關稅,北京。  延伸查詢new window
10.(清)曹雪芹(1971)。紅樓夢,臺南。  延伸查詢new window
 
 
 
 
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